Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Well, tell us how your trip went. We all want to hear about your special experience.

Moderators: teapot57, Tara

teapot57
Moderator & 2.1 Donator
Moderator & 2.1 Donator
Posts: 940
Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 3:59 pm
Gender?: Female
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: Calgary, AB
Has thanked: 88 times
Been thanked: 77 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

Trip 4: Chief Mountain to Many Glacier

Back in June, I found a cancellation through the Backcountry Availability page for GAB ELF. I had been to the Ptarmigan Tunnel from the Many Glacier side many times, but I had never climbed up from the Elizabeth Lake side, so I grabbed it.

A friend from Calgary joined me for this one. Tibber was back in the Park and planned to join us, but changed her mind after hiking during a couple of wind warning days. She met us in Many Glacier the day before the trip and we had dinner at the lounge at Many Glacier Lodge. We then did the short walk over to Fishercap Lake. No moose, but we were entertained by a small deer family.

Image

I shared a 2 bedroom Swiftcurrent cabin with tibber that night. It was nice to have one final visit with her for the summer. She drove Sharon and I to the Chief Mountain Trailhead the next morning and took off from there for her drive back to Phoenix. Another sad goodbye to a Chatter friend.

Image

We got a late start but that was intentional, because we only had a 6 mile hike to the Gable Creek Campground. There was a wind warning this day, but the wind really wasn’t an issue. We got there in about 3 hours, and enjoyed a leisurely afternoon hanging out in the campground and walking near the Belly River ranger station.

Image

Image

We had a large campsite at GAB and with the help of the Thermacell we were able to take advantage of the space. We laid out our mats and were able to lounge and do some stretching.

Image

Image

Image

There were a nice group of folks at the campground that evening. There was a couple from Kalispell who were off to Helen Lake the next morning, and would then be climbing Gable Pass “the wrong way” and camping at Slide Lake for their final day. We also chatted for a long time with two cousins from Texas who were in the Park for the first time and full of awe and wonder. They were on a two night itinerary with GLF as their second night, but they planned to detour to Elizabeth Lake the next morning before hiking up the Mokowanis Drainage to GLF. We would cross paths with them again the next morning in the middle of a thimbleberry jungle.

The backcountry ranger came around that night to check permits. I always keep mine in the top pocket of my backpack. I got it out and handed it to her and she had a puzzled look on her face. She said, this permit is for Gunsight Lake. Oops! Guess I didn’t clean out my pack very well after the last trip.

Our second day was a super easy one as we only had to hike from GAB to ELF. So again we were in no hurry. As you may have noticed, I didn’t tackle big mileage while backpacking this summer (other than what we would do the next day). I get a lot of enjoyment from just being in the backcountry, whether it’s hiking or just sitting by a lake and taking in the scenery. It is nice to slow down and really notice things. I do have a plan for next summer that’s a little more intensive, but I’ll share that later.

It’s a good thing we were in no rush, because I slept in until 8:45 am! I have never slept that late on a backpacking trip. But it was a cool night and I was super snug and comfortable in my sleeping bag.

Needless to say, we were the last ones out of camp that morning. First to arrive the day before and last to leave.

One thing I really like about the Gable Creek campground is how easy it is to gather water there. The creek is steps away from the food prep area, and there are nice deep areas along the bank, so with the flow of the river your bag fills instantaneously.

Gable Mountain is one of my favorites.

Image

First stop: Dawn Mist Falls.

Image

Image

It was quite brushy between Dawn Mist Falls and ELF.

Image

This photo with Sharon gives it a little more perspective. The only way out is through!

Image

We got to ELF in time for lunch. It was already a busy campground. We again had some super nice people in camp. Most of the group was off to Many Glacier the next day, so we would see a lot of these people over the course of the next few days, crossing paths on the trail and at the restaurant and porch at Swiftcurrent. We spent some time getting to know 3 doctors that met in med school years ago and take backpacking trips together each year. But our favorite camp mates were a team of 3 from South Carolina, David and his daughter Emily and niece Alex, both in their early 20’s. These girls kept us entertained with their constant chatter.

Our afternoon at ELF was a bit cloudy and cool. Sharon loves the water and had packed a swimsuit in hopes of jumping in Lizzy Lake, but it was too chilly for her to be motivated to do so. We lounged, talked to people, and soaked in the scenery and enjoyed Elizabeth Lake. The last time I was here there were too many mosquitoes to enjoy it, so I made up for it this time.


Image

We went to our tent that night knowing we needed to have a much earlier start for our ten mile hike to Many Glacier.

Image

I did not sleep well. I rarely feel the need to go in the middle of the night, but this night I did. So I was up quite a bit deciding what to do. The distance to the pit toilet outweighed the need each time, but around 6:15 am, a bird flew under the vestibule on my side of the tent and startled me with its flapping around in fright. It found its way out pretty quickly, but I was up.

I made my way to the pit toilet and then the bear box to gather my things to make coffee. There were quite a few people already packed and having breakfast. Sharon still slept. I made my coffee and chatted with the doctor group. Sharon still slept. Then they packed up and hit the trail, so I made my breakfast. Sharon still slept. Finally around 8:15 she made her way over to the food prep. We made a game plan to be on the trail by 9:30, and I headed back to the tent pad to start packing up. Despite my morning dawdle and her late start we made it out of camp at 9:30 as planned.

After crossing the bridge out of ELF, the climb begins. The first 2 miles were uphill, but it was an easy grade. We made pretty good time with occasional short rest breaks at some of the switchbacks, and decided we would take a longer break at the junction for Red Gap Pass.

Image

We were there in no time. We took off our packs and stopped for a snack. There was lots of action during our 20 minute break. People passed us in both directions, including our South Carolina friends and a solo hiker who was also heading to the Pass. We continued on and the trail flattened out for about a mile and was quite nice. It was shady and pleasant as it rounded a bend in the forest, where we reached a small waterfall and bubbling creek.

Image

After the flat section the climb began in earnest, although we were soon above the tree line and enjoying the views.

Image

Image

Image

The solo hiker was ahead of us just enough that we could use him as a guide to see where the trail was going. Although we knew we had a climb ahead of us, it was a little disheartening on a few occasions to see just how much higher than us he seemed to be. The trail winds around many turns along the mountain, creating a false sense of “oh, we’re going to see the tunnel just around the corner” when in reality, it was quite a few turns before we could see the final stretch.

Image

Sharon struggled a bit on this climb. It was hot, the sun was relentless, and she had a heavy pack. But she is strong. She is the mother of five so I know she can handle tough physical feats! I had to remind her a few times of just how strong she is. She drank some Gatorade and persevered. Toward the end, when we rounded the last corner and the final stretch to the tunnel was in sight, we could see our young friends Emily and Alex standing outside the tunnel doors, waving and cheering us on. I told Sharon let’s hike 100 steps and then we’ll rest each 100 steps. This really helped get her through that final stretch. We were elated to finally make it to the tunnel.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

It was back to civilization once we crossed through those tunnel doors on the Many Glacier side. Lots of dayhikers.

Image

Image

Emily and Alex were no longer at the tunnel when we got there, but they were waiting for us with David at Ptarmigan Lake. We took off the packs and boots, soaked our feet in the lake, and enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch of cheese, pepperoni sticks, crackers, Pringles and apple slices.

Image

Image

When neither of us could eat anymore, we still had 3 apple slices left. Before we could get the words out of our mouth offering them to David and the girls, Emily and Alex pounced on those slices like it had been days since they had seen fresh fruit. And that’s because it had been!

The five of us set off hiking together for the final stretch to Many Glacier, but David and the girls were soon ahead of us. We just couldn’t keep up with their pace. We had been so elated to make it to the tunnel and felt like the rest of the hike would be a piece of cake. Truth was, there was still 5 miles to go, and that first stretch leaving Ptarmigan Lake is steeper than I remembered. We were both pretty bagged by the time we got to Ptarmigan Falls and we were on autopilot the whole way back to Swiftcurrent.

Originally, we weren’t planning on staying at Swiftcurrent that night. With it only being a 3 1/2 hour drive home from there, I thought we could make the drive home and sleep in our own beds. But the border closes at 6:00. I found a cancellation for a Swiftcurrent hotel room on the morning we left, and we made a last minute decision to stay at Swiftcurrent after hiking back from ELF, because we didn’t want to be pressured during the hike back to make the border crossing by 6:00. It’s a good thing we did. We didn’t make it back to Swiftcurrent until 6:15.

When we finally made it to the Swiftcurrent parking lot, we found David, Emily and Alex sitting next to my vehicle. I had promised David a ride to the Poia Lake trailhead where he parked his car at the start of their hike. They were staying at the backcountry campsite, and we had some extra shower tokens to share with them. They invited us to their campsite for a beer that evening but we never made it.

We were so thankful to be staying in Swiftcurrent this night. It was so nice to hike right to the hotel and have a hot shower and not have to drive anywhere. After we showered and ate dinner, we socialized with the doctor group at the restaurant, visited the gift shop, and were happy to just go back to our room and relax. I had hoped to see our South Carolina friends the next morning, but we never did see them again.

We treated ourselves to breakfast at the Many Glacier Hotel the next morning before driving back to Calgary. What a great trip. It was now time for me to focus on the family for a couple weeks before my next return to the Park.
Last edited by teapot57 on Sun Nov 27, 2022 9:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
tibber
2.0 Donator
2.0 Donator
Posts: 474
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:50 am
Gender?: Female
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Has thanked: 75 times
Been thanked: 28 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by tibber »

fabulous pictures and very good trip log👏. I enjoyed going along with you virtually. That last bit up to the tunnel sounded pretty hard and I'm sure Sharon was glad to have you as her cheerleader. Also glad you got to enjoy Elizabeth Lake to make up for when we couldn't a few years back.
User avatar
paul
Donator
Donator
Posts: 1696
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:42 pm
Gender?: Male
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: MA
Has thanked: 61 times
Been thanked: 38 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by paul »

Thanks for the trip report, I enjoyed the pictures and the stories.
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
User avatar
davidwayne
Posts: 135
Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:36 am
Gender?: Male
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: Bryan, Texas
Has thanked: 15 times
Been thanked: 6 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by davidwayne »

Thank you so much for the report! Our last trip to Glacier including a short hike past the tunnel towards Elizabeth, so Ive always wondered what the trip up from the lake would be like. :)
User avatar
Jay w
Posts: 1920
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:17 am
Gender?: Male
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: St. Paul, MN
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 40 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by Jay w »

Ms Teapot. Thanks for the update. I know it's time consuming. That last pitch to the tunnel looks steeper than I remember, but when I did it, I had a daypack. I'm sure a big backpack changes the look of everything.

I texted and emailed Pete last week. (No answer.) I also tried calling and it went immediately to voice mail. I don't know more than that.

Mr. Jay
The NSA...the only people in the government who listen.
User avatar
MISSY
Donator
Donator
Posts: 431
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:50 pm
Please add the numbers(11): 0
Location: College Station, Texas
Has thanked: 25 times
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by MISSY »

Thanks for the trip reports! I've enjoyed seeing all the Chatter friends getting to hike together.
Dave and the others were smiling and looking down on y'all! This page created some great friendships.
I've been thinking about Pete, too. Last YouTube update was him traveling back to the US.
~~Missy
teapot57
Moderator & 2.1 Donator
Moderator & 2.1 Donator
Posts: 940
Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 3:59 pm
Gender?: Female
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: Calgary, AB
Has thanked: 88 times
Been thanked: 77 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

Thanks, everyone!

Jay, that photo shows the steepest section of the final climb to the tunnel, but the rest of it was a lot more gradual, although a constant up.

Missy, I find that my Chatter friends are my favorite hiking companions. They all have a great love of the Park and it’s so nice to be with like-minded people. I am very grateful for all of them and happy to meet up with new Chatters if we’re in the Park at the same time. Although we seem to be a dying breed.

Hope all is well with Pete!
teapot57
Moderator & 2.1 Donator
Moderator & 2.1 Donator
Posts: 940
Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 3:59 pm
Gender?: Female
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: Calgary, AB
Has thanked: 88 times
Been thanked: 77 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

Trip 5: Car Camping in Many Glacier

We made some online purchases that couldn’t be shipped to Canada, so I had them mailed to a package pickup in Babb. Perfect excuse to drive down for a couple nights at the end of August. I stayed at the Many Glacier campground in the same site I shared with Matt, Jen and Maia in July.

I was also able to pick up an 8:30 am boat ticket, so that made it an easy decision to hike the Grinnell Glacier Trail while I was there. Maybe not the best decision, but an easy one. This was not a great hiking day for me, for a couple of reasons.

First, I got myself to the boat dock and while waiting for the departure, all of a sudden didn’t feel great. Like I had a cold or something coming on. I had been a semi-close contact of someone with Covid 9 days prior, and had tested myself the day I left, just to be safe, and I was negative. But I had that thought in the back of my mind.

Second, it’s been 9 summers since I did the boat ride in Many Glacier. I hadn’t really thought about the return trip until the boat crew explained how it worked. There are only two times when they make multiple trips back to Lake Josephine to pick up passengers if there are more than the boat can hold: 11:45 and 5:30. For the stops in between, they only take as many people as will fit in one trip, so you have to wait at least an hour for the next boat.

I know, I know . . . There are worse places to wait. But there is no fair method of getting on the boat. You could be the first one there all by yourself for 10 minutes, but that doesn’t mean you’ll get on because when the boat arrives everyone will rush to be the first in line, even those that were the last to get to the dock. I really don’t like being in that type of situation, and I really didn’t want to get back to the hotel at 6:00 pm or later. I started to wish I had just walked from the campground, but the North Shore trail was closed for bears, which was another reason the boat sounded like a good idea.

Image

The boat ride was packed. When we got off at Lake Josephine, I waited in a long line to use the pit toilet before hitting the trail. When I finally got to hiking it was a constant stream of people. I’m not fast but I was passing a lot of people. There were people in jeans and others that seemed new to hiking. Not that any of that is a bad thing, but it was a crowded trail, and I was not feeling 100% which made me impatient, I guess. It made me miss the backcountry.

Image

Image

Image

Image

I got just past the switchback area (where you and I stopped, Jay) and sat down for a snack. There are a lot of rocks to sit on here and a great view of the waterfall coming down from the glacier.

Image

A guy sits down 5 feet away from me, drops his pack and I immediately hear a hiss. Knowing full well that he just discharged bear spray, I flew up from my spot and got the heck out of there.

Others weren’t so cognizant or fast, and I could hear coughing behind me. That was it for me. I decided to head back to the boat dock. I passed well over 100 people heading up on my way down. It was kinda fun to give them encouraging words. Heading back turned out to be a great idea because the 11:45 was empty and I could distance myself from others since I wasn’t feeling 100%.

One good thing about the boat ride is that I got probably my favorite photo of the summer.

Image

I drove back to my campsite and had some lunch and thought I’d lay in the hammock and read for a bit. After a short rest, I felt 100%! Allergies?! I don’t know. But I felt better. I made the drive to Two Sisters for dinner, and brought back a slice of huckleberry pie. Then walked down for the Native American Speaks session at the MG campground, which I really enjoyed.

Had a great evening at the campsite. It was a beautiful night and there weren’t any mosquitoes or other critters, except this one that I found hanging out on the picnic table.

Image

Pie for breakfast before my drive home the next morning. Five days later I’d be back in the Park for my final backpacking adventure of the season!

Image
Selkie
2.1 Donator
2.1 Donator
Posts: 1321
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:17 pm
Gender?: Female
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: Chicago
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 9 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by Selkie »

Teapot,
What a great chronicle of your summer! Thanks for sharing it so generously. I'd say you've quite a bit of "it" left. :D
Love the photo from the 11:45 boat!

I've been reading, sporadically, the biography of George Bird Grinnell (yep, the glacier-named-after guy).
He got massive amounts done in his lifetime, back when Influential Men could have a word with like-minded folks - Pres. Teddy Roosevelt, in his case - and get things done, though he did have to wait for a change in Sec'y of Interior to go full bore against industrial damming of Yellowstone rivers. He was critical to the establishment of both Yellowstone and Glacier NPs. He wrote columns for, and eventually owned, Forest and Stream, the forerunner to Field and Stream, in which he proselytized for protecting wildlands, bison, and tribes' lifestyles and rights. He was a self-trained zoologist and a founder of the Audubon Society.

When he first reached the glacier, it was after a multiday effort in the company of others (I would have to re-read, but it seemed to be expedition-style method), and the approach was up the face of the cirque, following the general path of the stream, rather than curving around in the vicinity of today's trail. He always felt an affinity for it, referring to it, somewhat uncharacteristically, as "my glacier."
User avatar
paul
Donator
Donator
Posts: 1696
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:42 pm
Gender?: Male
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: MA
Has thanked: 61 times
Been thanked: 38 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by paul »

Hi Teapot, I'm enjoying your Trip Reports! Thanks for posting. As far as the return boat is concerned, I would think that people would be courteous and let the people who there there before them on the boat first. But I guess people these days have forgotten their manners.
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
User avatar
Jay w
Posts: 1920
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:17 am
Gender?: Male
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: St. Paul, MN
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 40 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by Jay w »

Ms. Teapot. Quite a story about the bear spray. Good job bolting, oh and love that photo.

As for the boat line...one time Julie and I were waiting for a shuttle at the loop. Julie was cooked from hiking in the sun and we were out of water. One of the last guys in line was dressed like a ranger, and when the shuttle came, he pushed to the front and I said, "Hey Junior ranger, we were here before you." He apologized and stepped to the back and I don't remember if he made it on the shuttle. Sometimes you just have to call out the sh1t.

So, do you have anymore trips up for sleeve?

Give Lucy a rub behind the ears for me.

Jay
The NSA...the only people in the government who listen.
User avatar
brindledog
Donator
Donator
Posts: 477
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:18 pm
Gender?: Female
Please add the numbers(11): 11
Location: NC
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by brindledog »

Hey, hey! Love the trip reports here and some old "friends" popping up (*Jen*). Great pictures. Looks like a ton of fun. We are headed to Glacier again this summer. Our 18th summer - it's a lot more crowded but you can't beat the memories.

FYI - Pete was overseas last fall. I haven't heard from him since May. Miss seeing him on this site.
Post Reply

Return to “Trip Reports”