Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Well, tell us how your trip went. We all want to hear about your special experience.

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Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

One thing I love about living in Calgary is that it’s less than a 3 hour drive to Montana. Never mind that I’m 45 minutes from Kananaskis and an hour from Banff, my heart is in Glacier and I love driving down there as often as I can. I never think of myself as a local, I guess because of the border crossing, but I love the fact that I can wake up in the morning somewhere in the backcountry, like, say Old Man Lake, and hike out, drive home, and fall asleep in my own bed that very same night.

Covid really messed with my ability to pick up and go down to Glacier these last few years, so it was nice to have a summer somewhat back to normal. I definitely made up for some lost time in 2022! Over the course of the summer, I car camped at Many Glacier a total of 3 times, and also stayed at Two Medicine and St Mary campgrounds, and did 4 short backcountry trips. June was a solo month, in July I spent time with many Chatters, and during August and September I came down with Calgary friends when not solo.

JUNE

Trip #1: Many Glacier Campground

June was cold, wet and rainy this year. For my first trip I stayed 2 nights at Many Glacier Campground sometime mid-month. The trails around MG were mostly snowed in, but hiking big miles wasn’t my goal. I came down to relax in my happy place and was just glad to be back.

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I did a lot of this.

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And some walking around.

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And more of this.

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The next morning I decided to actually leave the campground. So I went over to the hotel for the view. You can see it was still quite snowy.

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On the way out of Many Glacier, I spotted 3 bears near Windy Creek.

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The Sun Road was open only so far as Jackson Glacier Overlook and passes weren’t required yet, so I drove the length of the road. The East Side was not busy at all, so for the first time ever, I made a stop at Wild Goose Island.

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Then headed over to Sun Rift Gorge, thinking I might hike up the trail towards Siyeh Pass.

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But there were tons of blowdowns right from the start of the trail, so that wasn’t happening.

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So I decided to walk toward Baring Falls and made it there but no farther, because a sign warned that the trail was closed for flooding.

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I then stopped at the St Mary Visitor Center to inquire about an advanced permit application that I never heard back on and for which I never received a refund. It turns out that I was actually awarded a permit for 2 nights at Gunsight in July, but never received an email! I already had plans with MattB, Jen and Maia that overlapped with the Gunsight permit dates, but I didn’t cancel it right away, because I wanted to talk to them about it first.

On the way back into Many Glacier, I stopped at the new pizza place next door to the Cattle Baron. I didn’t want a whole pizza to myself, so on their suggestion I ordered a calzone. I ate it back at my campsite and it was delicious. Did a walk around the campsite and the Swift Current area, then enjoyed some wine and my hammock.

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Then pretty much just packed up camp and left the next morning but no regrets there- I was coming back in a week.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by Selkie »

Early season delights!
Those photos show the truth behind the extremely laconic "Trail cleared [date]" notifications on the Park website. What a mess.
I am glad your happy place continues to restore and renew.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by tibber »

yep, you are lucky and your love for the Park is always so evident. Thx for sharing.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by paul »

It looks like your 2022 started off nicely. Can't wait to hear more about your trips this season.
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

Trip #2: Plan C

Through the lottery, I was lucky enough to get a permit for 2 nights at Atlantic Creek campground that lined up perfectly with a trip to Whitefish that I had planned with my husband. I would drive from Calgary on the morning of the 23rd, pick up my permit and hike to ATL, then do Triple Divide Pass as a dayhike on September 24. I would then hike out on the 25th and meet Scott in Whitefish later that day.

The predators ruined my plans.

According to the rangers, a herd of cows entered the Park at the Cut Bank entrance and couldn’t make their way out due to snow conditions. There were at least 20 carcasses between the campground and along the trail toward ATL and MOR. The trail was closed to allow predators to feast.

I learned of the closure well in advance of my dates, so I watched the Advanced Reservation Availability page and came up with a Plan B. I put in a request for one night at Red Eagle Foot on the 23rd and got it, so I cancelled the ATL ATL permit.

The 23rd turned out to be a cold, windy day with gusts as high as 50 mph. As I drove down to the Park, I could feel the gusts hitting my car and started to rethink my plans. I stopped at the St Mary visitor center and talked to a ranger and learned that I was the only camper with a permit at REF that night. That pretty much sealed my decision to cancel the permit. I didn’t feel like hiking in the cold wind to an empty campground, and sleeping in those conditions didn’t seem fun.

I’ve been going to Glacier long enough to know that it’s always good to have a Plan A, B, and C. So Plan C, it is!

I had chatted with a friend that works at Two Med campground before I left, to see if I had any chance of getting a campsite this time of year if I arrived late afternoon. She could make no promises, but said that some days it doesn’t fill until as late as 4:30. So I drove to Two Med and found a great campsite in Loop C (or was it B? It definitely wasn’t A).

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Almost got trampled by sheep while walking through the campground. They really made themselves at home here.

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You can tell from the clouds and waves that the wind was still blowing.

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It remained windy all evening, so I decided not to put up my tent and just slept in my SUV. I woke up to a nice, calm but chilly morning. I was to meet Scott in Kalispell around 5:00 so had time for a hike. I decided on Scenic Point.

The Scenic Point Trail was posted for mountain lions, and someone a few weeks earlier caught video of a mountain lion snatching a lamb. It was easy to see why the warning was still in place. There were ewes and lambs all over the place. They grouped together and were often blocking the trail, forcing hikers to detour off and around them a couple times.

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Obligatory tree shot.

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It was pretty overcast this day.

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On my way to the west side, I thought I’d check out the Walton Ranger Station area and trailheads. MattB, Jen, Maia and I had a permit in July for Park Creek, two nights at Upper Park Creek, and Ole Creek. We didn’t intend to use the last night at Ole Creek, but planned instead to hike out over Two Medicine Pass into Two Med. I stopped to see what the trailhead was like. It sure was brushy.

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It was good to be back in Whitefish.

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Scott’s not a hiker so we did other things.

Got a cool tshirt

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And a couple new Pendleton National Park dog beds for our spoiled pooches.

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Scott and I drove over to Apgar one afternoon. I was surprised at how high the water was at Lake MacDonald. There was no beach in front of the Apgar Motor Inn, and the first few steps were underwater.

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After that I spent about 3 weeks at home before my next return in July. And that was when the real fun began!
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by tibber »

As usual, good backup plans. Great pictures. I'd like to do that Scenic Trail one of these times as it does indeed look "scenic". And you can't beat a trip to Whitefish.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

JULY: Let the backpacking begin!


July 19 is the day I was anxiously awaiting. It marked the start of an 11 day trip I had planned in the Park, where I’d spend time with friends, some new and some longtime friends (notice I didn’t say old) that I’ve met through this Chat page.

I left my house around 6:30 am and drove straight to the Chief Mountain Customs trailhead to meet Tibber and two of her friends for a 3 night trip up the Mokowanis drainage. Tibber and I have been meeting in the Park since 2019, but this is the first time I met Ambika and Deborah. I will save most of the details of this trip for Tibber because she writes much better trip reports than me.

I enjoyed backpacking with these gals and it was the first time in awhile that I’ve been part of a group of 4. This was my first time back to the Belly River area since 2019, and I noticed that the trails were a lot brushier than I remember them to be. The vegetation on the trail into Cosley Lake campground was high, and it was a jungle between the food prep and the far food hang. Glens Lake Foot was a sea of high thimbleberry between the paths and campsites.

We had a black bear just outside the food prep area at Gable Creek the first morning. It wanted nothing to do with us, and just walked on the outskirts of the campground. A ranger mentioned it had been hanging around but it didn’t seem to bother anyone.

I fell twice during this trip and looked like a little kid with double scraped up knees. The first tumble occurred on our way to GLF, just before the turn off for Cosley Lake campground. I placed my right pole and it snapped, causing me to lose my balance and tumble off the trail. I “turtled” as Tibber likes to call it, landing on my pack upside down and on an angle (head lowest to ground and feet above me). I wasn’t hurt except for a couple scrapes and it was really quite funny because I could not get up with my pack on. I distinctly remember Tibber having a good laugh as I unclipped my waist strap and wiggled out of my pack. 😂 The ground just off the trail was steeper than you’d think but you couldn’t tell because of the vegetation.

The second fall happened as we were scouting out campsites at GLF. The paths were really overgrown and I looked up to enjoy the view of Mt Merritt while walking and tripped over a root. Down I went, banging up the other knee. This would continue to be a theme for me over the course of the summer.

Buildings behind the Belly River Ranger Station taken during an evening stroll from Gable Creek Campground.

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This guy looks like he wants out.

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View from Glenn’s Lake Food Prep

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Beautiful Cosley Lake

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Lots of pretty wildflowers in bloom

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Hiking out of the Belly River

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We were lucky to have overcast skies on the hike back out to the Chief Mountain Trailhead. It really helped when crossing the meadows and during the final uphill push. I enjoyed hiking with this group and was sad to leave them, although I’d still see more of Tibber and Ambika in East Glacier as we were all staying at Mountain Pine that night. After hiking out, I was quickly on my way to East Glacier to meet MattB, Jen and Maia. Matt arrived in EG just before I did, and Jen and Maia arrived on the train the night before. I was looking forward to seeing them and to starting our next adventure!
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by Jay w »

Excellent. A trip report....WITH PHOTOS!.

First, I know that tree. That tree is a friend of mine.

Second, I feel a connection to Lucy since I did a "show" on basset hounds.

Third, good job getting down that trail from Gable Pass with a pack. A Belly backpack is still on my list, so if someone backs out....


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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by paul »

I'm enjoying your trip report Tina. I don't remember Cosley lake food prep area being over grown, other parts of the hike Chief to Watertown were pretty bad however. Cosley Lake is amazing isn't it.

Glad you are okay after your falls. I keep my poles close to my body when I hike and I try to keep the height of my poles just a few inches above my hips. I believe this is the most efficient way to use them and less likely to planting poles far off the trail.
We are in the mountains and the mountains are in us. - John Muir
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

Second, I feel a connection to Lucy since I did a "show" on basset hounds
For Jay (and anyone else that loves hounds):

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A Belly backpack is still on my list, so if someone backs out....
Summer 2023
I'm enjoying your trip report Tina. I don't remember Cosley lake food prep area being over grown, other parts of the hike Chief to Watertown were pretty bad however. Cosley Lake is amazing isn't it.
Thanks, Paul! A “jungle” may have been a bit of an exaggeration, but it was pretty overgrown between the food prep and the far food pole when we were there. Maybe it was cleared out by trail crew or use by the time you got there. I sure do love Cosley.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by teapot57 »

(This is a long one- it covers 11 days)

So where did I leave off . . . I was in the middle of Trip 3 and I had just finished backpacking with Tibber and was driving to East Glacier to meet up with MattB, Jen (yep, that Jen) and her daughter Maia, who is now 17 years old, if you can believe that.

Our original plan was a 3 or 4 night backpack through the Park Creek drainage and over Two Medicine Pass to Two Medicine. However, our plan was foiled when the trail to Cobalt Lake closed for bears. Good thing I had that permit for two nights at Gunsight Lake because we used it as our backup plan.

We drove to Two Medicine on the 23rd to pick up our permit and did a hike to Upper Two Medicine Lake.

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With a stop at Twin Falls. Can you find Jen and Maia?

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After that, we drove to St Mary Campground and set up camp. I brought some potato chips down from Canada, flavors that you can’t find in the US. Jen and Matt’s favorite was the All Dressed, and Maia liked the Spicy Dill Pickle best. No one really cared for the Ketchup chips.

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We ate at the Mexican restaurant in St Mary that night. You order your food at the counter and then sit at picnic tables outside, where your food is brought out to you. They had live music and the food was pretty good.

On the morning of the 24th, Jen and I drove to St Mary Lodge and picked up some quick breakfast food and some sandwiches for lunch. We then packed up our backpacks and moved some gear to Matt’s van, so that the 4 of us could fit in my vehicle for the ride to the trailhead at Jackson Glacier Overlook.

The problem writing these trip reports 3 months after the fact is that some of the details are fuzzy (I’m getting older, remember?) so I can’t remember small things like what time we left the trailhead, or what the temperature was, or whether it was buggy. I do remember that it was a really nice hike and my first time hiking beyond the Reynolds Creek Campground.

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Twice in the past I have gotten lucky with permits for GUN ELL SPE, and both times I had to cancel, once for bad weather and the other time because of the Reynolds Creek Fire.

We stopped for lunch at the creek below Florence Falls and took a nice break. We ate our sandwiches, and Jen decided to drink the beer she had packed to avoid carrying it during the uphill climb.

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We were all doing pretty well with the hike in before lunch, but things turned south afterward. Just beyond the bridge where we enjoyed our lunch, the uphill begins. It really isn’t that bad of a climb, but it got hot. And we all just finished a big lunch. And one of us just finished a beer. We took a lot of breaks. And we might have gotten a little whiney. But it really wasn’t long before we reached Gunsight Lake.

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Gunsight Lake was under a mosquito warning, so I decided to pack a Thermacell Backpacker. I had heard good things about this device from other backpackers in the Canadian Rockies, and how it is really effective against mosquitoes (but not flies), but it was going to be my first time trying it out. When I showed it to Matt and Jen while packing at St Mary, they both kinda chuckled and I could tell they were skeptical.

Well let me tell you, this thing was a lifesaver.

The mosquitoes were horrific at the campground. Bug nets were a necessity.

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So I fired up the Thermacell, and what do you know . . . they disappeared. This thing is a godsend. It doesn’t kick off much noticeable fume, and who knows what we were inhaling, but we could take off our bug nets and not be bothered. And it has a ten foot radius, so we were the most popular group at the food prep area. Everyone in the food prep benefited from it, and we all hung out there after supper instead of scattering.

You can see it on the ground on the upper left side of this photo. It weighs about 3-4 ounces and screws onto a gas canister. It doesn’t use much gas at all, and each Thermacell repellant sheet that slides into the device lasts about 4 hours.

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I think on this night we had the most people I’ve ever seen in Glacier food prep area. You can’t even see everyone here. There were at least 20 people. And notice that no one is using a bug net!

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A few from the other groups told us that after we left the food prep and I hung the Thermacell, the mosquitoes reappeared so they all went back to their tents.

I’m digressing a little but I wanted to sing the praises of the Thermacell Backpacker.

After we arrived at the campground, we spent a while in the food prep while Maia found us a campsite. After hanging food we set up camp. Henry Styles (owner of Tarptent) would be proud. Jen has a Tarptent Hogback, Matt used a Tarptent Rainbow, and I used a Tarptent Double Rainbow while car camping.

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We then went down to relax by the lake for awhile.

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We had a helicopter fly by a couple times, which we knew was probably not a good sign. And during the night, we heard the helicopters again. We learned on our return that this was the evening that the bodies of Jack Beard and Brian Kennedy were retrieved, after their fatal falls while descending Dusty Star Mountain.

The helicopters weren’t the only disturbance that evening. I was sharing a tent with Jen and Maia, and Matt’s tent was set up next to us. During the night I was awaken by the sound of hooves, lots of them, running between the tents. I shot straight up from my mat, as it sounded like they were 2 feet from my head. I wasn’t exactly sure what was out there, but found out the next morning that mountain goats had invaded the campsites. They didn’t disturb ours at all, other than peeing on the trail leading out of our site, but another group was kept up all night by them.

The 25th of July was our layover day. After breakfast, Matt, Jen and Maia decided they would hike up the trail towards Gunsight Pass. Not necessarily to the Pass because there were still some problematic snowfields, but up aways. I felt tired after breakfast and thought I’d go back to the tent for a little nap. I shut my eyes for about an hour and it did me wonders. I guess all those days of hiking and backpacking in a row had caught up to me.

I went down to the lake after my nap, then decided I would hike up towards the Pass to meet the crew somewhere along the trail. But I didn’t even leave the beach before I heard their voices. They didn’t hike very far at all before hearing from another hiker that a sow with cubs was near the trail, protecting her cubs from a male grizzly that was after them. We saw some great photos of the encounter that evening at the food prep.

So this turned out to be pretty much a rest day for all of us.

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We really enjoyed hanging out at the lake. Jen and Maia walked along the perimeter of the lake a ways, and found a cool remnant from the Gunsight Chalet (we’re assuming that’s what it was).

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We were up again the second night after a storm rolled in. I watched the lightening light up the tent for awhile before the thunder began. And boy was it loud reverberating off the mountains. A steady rain started and my corner of the tent started getting wet. I snuggled in closer to Maia who was in the middle, and that kept me dry, but Maia was soon getting wet from a leak in the roof. There was lots of commotion as we rearranged and tried to stay dry, and thunder was booming and lightening lit up the sky. Yet Matt slept through it all.

We had a pretty uneventful hike out, but did enjoy a stop at the bridge below Florence Falls again, this time with a few of our fellow Gunsight Lake backpackers. And we also enjoyed a long break at Deadwood Falls before the 700 foot climb out to the trailhead.

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We got to see some tourists in their environment on the way back to St Mary.

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We stopped at Rising Sun for snacks and drinks, and enjoyed a charcuterie lunch back at the St Mary campground.

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There were no showers at St Mary, so off we went to Johnson’s for a shower, and then dinner at Two Sisters.

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After that we went to St Mary KOA to see if we could find MarxMn. He was not at his cabin because he drove over to St Mary Campground to find us, but we eventually caught up with him at the KOA gift shop.

That was one big truck you rented, Bill!

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We had a good sleep that night at St Mary campground. Bill came over for a visit that morning, then set off to meet the rest of his crew that were arriving that day. We took it easy this day. In the afternoon we went up to Logan Pass, because Maia had never been on the Highline. So we hiked out a short way and then wandered around the visitor center.

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Back to St Mary campground for a supper of chicken grilled over the campfire, mushroom risotto, and fresh vegetables. Jen can cook a great campfire meal!

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We also had a visit that night with Rosie and the Minnesota crew.

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The next morning, we moved over to Many Glacier campground.

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After setting up camp we started a hike to Iceberg Lake. But we quickly realized that was a bad idea, because it was after 11:00 am and already sweltering. It was in the high 80’s this day. So we made it a beer and sandals day by Swiftcurrent River.

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We had dinner at the Many Glacier Hotel

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and then went back to the campsite to drink some Gunsight Rock wine (how fitting) and other adult beverages. The Minnesota crew came by for one last visit.

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The next morning we woke up early and Jen and I tore down our tents. We were on the trail to Iceberg Lake by 8:00 or 8:30. What a great hike we had! There were more icebergs than I’ve ever seen.

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After hiking back, it was time to say goodbye to Matt, who was staying in MG for another night. Matt is a great hiking partner and I’m always sad to say goodbye. But it was time to get Jen and Maia back to East Glacier (another hard goodbye) and myself back home. I had already been gone for 11 days, and I was only going home for 4 days before returning to the Park for another short backpack.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by tibber »

quite the adventures you had; especially at Gunsight with the wildlife and weather! I like the remnant that was found. Great test of your mosquito repellant; thx for sharing the info. It would be a great commercial.

Nice to see so many icebergs at the lake!

Sounds like another wonderful time in Glacier after we parted ways. What I like about Glacier is the down time is almost as fun as the going time. :arrow:
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by MarxMN »

Yes, that was a big Dodge Ram pickup - the best rental deal I could find. Other than being a bit awkward to park it worked well.

And here is what Iceberg Lake looked like from above three days after you hiked there.


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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by paul »

Thanks for the report, Tina. With that many people at Gunsight lake I think it doesn't qualify for a backcountry site anymore. We had quite a few people in the food prep at MOJ this year. Maybe 10 or 12. It definitely felt crowded.

It's good to see Jen is still making it to the park.
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Re: Summer 2022: I’m Getting Older But I Still Got It In Me

Post by Jay w »

Teapot, I finally got to reading the last section of this report. It was quite interesting with the goats, mosquitoes, whine, and not waking the dead. I'm just surprised at the mosquitoes since I've never had a problem with mosquitoes out there (one thing I like about Glacier). I'm not surprised at the heat as it seems like summer now brings some days that are real cookers.

Thanks for the report.

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