Part 5
Wed, Aug 23rd
Cosley Lake to Helen Lake Campground
Day 10, 7th day of Backpacking Trip
8.5 miles, 475 ft ascent (>1000 on gps but who's counting), 240 ft descent
"Next Girlfriend"
Yup, there's been Sue, Margaret, Elizabeth and now what must have been one of Cosley's favorites-Helen.
Pretty morning, didn't miss this sunrise.
Smoke blurs the sun's edges, but still lovely and moving. Windless, so the lake provides a near flawless reflection. Too bad for the smoke on an otherwise perfect vista.
Big day ahead, we get Camp packed up by 7:00. Off to the food prep area where the Glacier Guide is busying away gathering the water for a group of 7, laying out their food bags in a neat row, cooking their oatmeal & coffee...with a genuine smile on her face a friendly hello to us. She's energetic and super nice and clearly feels lucky to have this job. She's guiding this group of 1st timers on a six-nighter and all are doing very well. I asked her about the various diets and she addresses Gluten-free, Vegan, Paleo, on and on without a hitch. I talked to her about the great things I saw the Guides, Vince & Jen, making at GP Chalet and how jealy I was. Each guide we've met has been kind of 'awesome'....what a great group and I have no hesitancy in recommending them for friends back home.
Visited with a really nice couple from Atlanta over breakfast who were on their first extended backpacking trip. They'd met in college, shared the same church, and had a love of hiking. Recently had been to Kauai, so we talked of the Kalalau Trail, and Kokee SP. They seem to be totally enjoying Glacier and asked about our many trips and which were our favorite parks. Aside from Glacier being the favorite in summertime, Mike went into GCNP and how great it is but I heard several times from him that 'you could die there' at the wrong time of year or inadequate preparation or 'on & on'....think they were very interested in possibly backpacking there which was why he went out of his way to share some of its concerns. He did a good job, imo!
The fella mentioned having blisters on his feet, so I mentioned being a nurse and having a blister kit. Poor guy had like 5 blisters brewing mainly between his toes. I applied 2nd Skin to do its magic and that followed with smiles and the look of relief from the fella.
Mike points to his watch, our early morning start obliterated in favor of enjoyable company. Pretty morning for hiking and I'm in confident spirits in my Teva's, strapping my precious boots to the back of my pack.
Excited when we reach the Ford and seeing the cable again, time for a brisk dip. I took a great picture of the sign and no still of the ford...nice job Tam!
But I did get a trail view back.
In my defense, Mike filmed it with the GoPro:
https://youtu.be/uRK-KN96lhc
My first impression was that it would only be ankle deep, but in fact the Mokowanis River even with no rain for almost two months, still reached knee depth near the opposing shore. As Mike was putting on his boots he found a Wolf Pin in the dirt, a pretty one which he attached on my shoulder strap. Now finding a resting place here at home.
Back to business, the 3.7 to ELF is easy ambling through varying heights of vegetation. Last time was shoulder high and wet, raining dew in our boots, this time drydry.
We see an interesting Burl like a globe.
Pass the bridge leading to the Belly River Ranger Station and Chief Mtn TH.
Dawn Mist Falls, pitiful selfie
Better
Arrive ELF, Mike relaxed and in good spirits. Note: belt is cinched way down as shorts are now too big and carry an unbelievable array of necessities. Railriders would be proud if they saw the list of all that is stuffed in their multitude of pockets.
A must visit to a previous beloved campsite where Mike had gotten out at Midnight in the middle of pouring rain to dig trenches away from the tent as water was creeping up the sides. Fun times!
March on. Barely looking at the beach at ELF as we'll have time to enjoy that later, we enter rolling landscape toward Elizabeth Lake Head. Was wrong to think this was a flat walk on the beach, you in fact make repeated gains and losses. This is new terrain for us and I welcome the unknown with some enthusiasm. Two spruce grouse captivate us. we would see them in return and hear of others who enjoyed them. One guy freezes for a sec.
Elizabeth Lake Head Campground provided a perfect lunch spot. Feet up. Still not tired of a packet of Tuna Creations with Pretzel Crisp crumbled into it and dried mango. Mike still happy with his jerky, cashews and dried pineapple. Before leaving, I'm able to provide a very good report that the facilities in the pit toilet are nice and clean, and that the campsites are quite suitable though glaringly minus a view. No pics again!
Traversing a swampy section, then through thick woods, we break out every so often where an avalanche has cleared a chute, Mike noting the destruction it caused with trees in a jumble. Getting nearer to Helen the skies open up again to our view with some stream crossings.
Then, within a half mile of our objective, Huck Central!! Pack off and commence chowing down. This is a goood patch so we find ourselves calling out Hey Bear in between mouthfuls. Now to collect some for our morning cereal. We took a whole luxurious hour with the berries...could hardly stop. I kept trying to get Mike back on the trail and he would find a new batch of plumpies. "Okkkk, that's plenty!!" I say and we reluctantly leave.
Well, I'm happy to report that the whole way in to Helen from there was Loaded with terrific berries! So we talk of the best berry bonanzas we had experienced in the park and Mike maintains it was last year above Ellen Wilson, but this year near Stoney Indian Pass and here near Helen make fine rivals. "Hey Bearbear!!" And arriving at Helen lake, you can believe we were on a constant lookout for big furry eating machines.
Arrive to find no one else, we hang our food and peruse our 2 campsite options. One is closest to the food prep area and open air potty, nice, flat and big but surrounded with downed trees. The other is off to itself and behind a huge fir tree which is providing optimal shade. Winner!
What a perfectly pretty place is this Miss Helen.
It's windy so the waters choppy but the temp is super pleasant. There's a bit of smoke returned from the Northerly direction and we don't think too much of it.
Then we Really start thinking a lot of it...
As the brown cloud grows in size and depth of color in mere minutes, so does our concern about our safety. We had just come 9 miles after all on a hot afternoon, hung our food, made camp...are we gonna have to abandon?? Smoke continues to the point where we think it's coming from the Mokowanis Valley where we just were
Hmmm, ok, we start to talk through our situation. So we have a PLB, if we had to use it there's plenty of flat space for a helicopter to land. We both indicate that there's probably no helicopter available, of course due to dealing with so many fires.
We remark on how one ember could set this tinder box off in a second. Hmmm, looking above the lake to Ahern Pass, I comment on how Heff & Laura had gone up the cliffs in search of a goat path that leads to Ahern Pass...we quickly dispel that as an option based on level of fitness and sheer guts. Plan, continue appraisal of situation and be prepared to break camp and get on down to Elizabeth Lake & presumed safety. Mike set his watch alarm for Midnight to reassess.
The brown cloud consumed the valley. And we watched. Eating dinner provided us the diversion of avoiding clouds of mosquitoes. Whistling clouds of the little buggers but our permethrin treated clothes protected us from even a single bite. We did have mosquito head nets to wear but didn't need them as they kept a certain distance from us.
Headed back to our tent something sizeable moved in the woods moved about, fortunately it was hooved friends not pawed. Mama Muley and two young deer. Mama made this loud and strange huffing sound that I'd never heard before as if to warn the youngsters.
It was unusually warm and uncomfortable this evening. We both tossed and turned a lot. The Midnight observation revealed no glowing red of any imminent danger. Toss and turn some more. At one point I heard the noise of hoof prints or was it paws shifting gravel close to our tent, about 2 a.m. Awoke Mike to investigate but nothing seen. Truth be told, being up here at Helen alone with no one taking the other camp, made me nervous, especially about a bear encounter. Kept thinking of all those ripe berries and worried myself awake most all night. Similar for Mike but he was in fire alert for us. One of our roughest nights backpacking in memory.
Thurs, Aug 24th
Helen Lake to Elizabeth Lake Foot
Day 11, 8th day of Backpacking Trip
4.7 miles, 390 ft ascent, 559 ft descent
"Moody Blues"
Awoke to blowing wind, dark gray clouds low over the lake-like we were in the wet cloud.
I don't need to tell you that the gorgeous pictures I'd seen of Helen looked a lot different than this! Yesterday, arriving in the afternoon, the sun glares back from Ahern Peak so it's not really the time to capture her beauty. Definitely gonna need a redo on Helen...as Mike often says in such situations, "we were robbed!"
The rain is now blowing sideways and I Hate to pack up in the rain. Makes perfect sense to both of us, after such a sleepless night, to catch a few nice hours of shuteye staying warm & dry in the tent. Approaching 11:00, it looked like we might have a brief window to pack up dry and make a run for it. But first, an extra coat of Nikwax to the boots. That Michael (she shakes head laughing).
Truly, twern't nuthin' to see as we hoofed it down from Helen. Passed our Glacier Guide friend that we met at Cosley taking 5 of her 7 up to Helen and into the rain. Kudos to the undaunted, but I'm doubtful there's much to see today. We laud the Huckleberries they have ahead and said we'd see them tonight at ELF. Because of the wet conditions I'm back in my boots (the not-so-magic shoes). And I am so sadddd. It seems the toe box on both boots shrunk significantly after a rainy hike back home. Again, left little toe is smashed and despite tying the boots so tight trying to keep the foot from sliding forward, my right great toe is bruised to where I think now for sure I'll lose that toenail. Add that I'd completely removed the insole in attempt to make more room, so I'm walking with no padding. I was able to get it done but definitely in somber sad spirits! Arriving ELF, we look back toward quite stormy skies and feel lucky to be dry and able to setup camp dry.
White caps and whipping constant wind at Elizabeth Lake Foot. Much like our last visit here in 2012.
We visit with a very nice couple from NC in camp, the two from the Glacier Guides group who opted out of dayhiking Helen.
A group horsepacking arrive confused; 'was this the way to Mokowanis?' Two cute kids were with them and several very pretty Raines. They'd turned the wrong direction after fording at the Belly River. Horses were sweat soaked and tired. Mike got the map and helped reorient them. I got in a few nice nose pats before they headed back from whence they came. Glacier guides group came in and made camp. Nice visiting with them, many were solo females on a first backpack and had really enjoyed their 6 nighter so far.
Last in camp was a rowdy group of 10 men, who consumed every spare bit of space in the bearboxes, even though there was an extra cable to hang from in the event the boxes were too full. They scoped out the campsites and obnoxiously asked Mike if there were 'only you two' in our campsite as if to suggest poaching into our camp. Rrrrr. So they crammed 4 single tents into one campsite, removing sticks that were clearly placed in there to revegetate part of it. Rrrrrrr. They spoke to no one but in their own group. Generally wafting machismo and left us to wonder how 10 people got to occupy two sites that were meant for no greater than 4 at each. Rrrrrrrrr. Yuck!
Dinner was enjoyed in the company of the Glacier Guides group. We watched fat Columbian ground squirrels scurrying to ground near all of us for a crumb then taking their treasures up to the same perch on a broken branch up the tree; back & forth.
Also while at dinner, I see the flash of Indigo blue land on a tree branch in one of the huge ? Douglas firs. I clinch Mike's knee b/c it is a Stellar's Jay. Probably nuisances and camp robbers to Western folks, I think they're just gorgeous and was pleased to see one.
A brief visit to the lakeshore after dinner yielded some blue sky and sunset tipped clouds.
Attempts to skip rocks were feudal with the waves but seemed like the thing to do anyway. One couldn't help but notice how perfectly smooth and almost soft feeling the rocks were.
Back at camp I came upon the cutest bunny with big tall ears and jackrabbitty feet which dashed before I could capture him. Mike gazed intently upon the upper cliffs and did indeed spot two Mtn Goats. I could barely make them out but was most satisfied to know they were in our midst.
Last campsite, and a nice one, at ELF, on a slight slope boosting confidence that Mike would not have trench duty tonight.
We retire for our last night in the tent. Comfortable, warm, and a happy two peas in a pod looking forward to a very big final day tomorrow.
Fri, Aug 25th
Elizabeth Lake Foot to Swiftcurrent (hike out)
Day 12, 9th day of Backpacking Trip
10.1 miles, 2518 ft ascent, 2480 ft descent
"Tunnel of Love"
The alarm goes off at 5:00 AM. Our last day. And we need a serious good start. Open the tent to no wind and blue skies. Like a gift, it’s kinda unbelievable after yesterday. We break camp in short order and are on to breakfast. Our special Three Berry Crumble turned out only to be a few bites, so we had cereal too, our last of 11 identical breakfasts. The food prep area is busy in no time. Clearly others have the same idea about an early start. We enjoy our visit with the Glacier Guides group of eight. One couple and the rest are solo females with a very upbeat guide. Turns out the couple are medical from NC and we have a friend in common. I do get coffee this morning, but I didn’t linger long on it – we’ve got some climbing to do. After a few nice shots of the Elizabeth Lake, finally we load up.
Its Very cool in the 40’s and I start in a tee shirt and skort, so I’m wanting to get those muscles working. Cross the swinging cable bridge and are now going up.
And yes, I'm in Teva’s rather than my boots. Willing to sacrifice arch support over blisters and toe-pinching. Little concerned about that but I’ve set my mind to it.
Terrain is solid footing and perfect grade. I make good time early and manage to keep this pace up. My new hiking legs since Fifty Mountain and Stoney Indian are proving better. We’re in tree cover with no wind and proceed unhindered. Finally breaking out in open at 1,100 feet of ascent, start to see Elizabeth Lake as a whole.
Next we have a prominent obstacle to skirt around. Lots of ripe huckleberries again at this elevation. Mmmmm. Mike doesn’t think there is good as those at Helen, but I’m happy to eat them. Big plump berries.More and more up.
Link to video of Elizabeth Lake from the Ptarmigan Trail:
https://youtu.be/Oiskiy__ybU
A nice fella from the Glacier Guides group passes us and is kind enough to capture us.
More and more up. Now we're exposed, and while the view is grand and expansive, it is full-on cold wind. My head and back are sweaty, and the rest of me wants to shiver. Up, up, and more up. Still even more up, though we start to see the Ptarmigan Tunnel.
The phrase "so close, but yet so far" was made for this instance. Go 20 steps and stop. Twenty more and so on. Finally we get to the well known rock wall lining the entrance and began to see people who congratulate us.
I wanted jump up and down, but unlike finishes at the Grand Canyon when you top out here you’re only halfway done. We take a moment for a few last looks at the fine Belly River Valley and celebrate our last climb of the journey. Say to each other with quiet zeal, “We did it!”
Passing through the dark tunnel emphasizes how bright and beautiful the sun is on the other side.
Link to video of our tunnel walk through:
https://youtu.be/cXL3sEwGReM
There's Ptarmigan Lake and the zigzags down that I've always seen in pictures.
Descending we see a family of five bighorn ewes and lambs on the rock shelves above posing in silhouette against the blue sky.
We progressed toward the lake with the intent to eat lunch there when I hear “Tammy?”. Lo and Behold: It’s Joyce and Randy!! They’ve come to meet us AND bear gifts of chocolate hazelnut butter. I give out a huge squeal that anyone in that cirque could hear and give her a huge hug and a kiss on his cheek. She cutely turns to Randy and says, “I told ya she would do that!”
How sweet of them to pick this trail to meet up with us on our last day. Such enjoyable time catching up at lunch and hearing about how the fires had changed Joyce’s plans. With Sperry Chalet’s closure rated to the Sprague fire, she had creatively detoured them to the Cutback Valley which I thought was yet another stroke of her genius. Joyce and Randy are simply wonderful to spend time with and left me wishing I had hours more of their goodness! Missing Selkie, we have kept up as Cyberfriends through the years and supported each other in the Off-Season. Great friends that I cherish!
Reluctantly, I let Joyce and Randy go to reach the Ptarmigan Tunnel and that magical view that awaits them of The Belly. For us, literally ‘Its all Downhill from here’.
We noticed many people passing us on the zigzags down from the tunnel (it’s about 11 a.m.) and this is a big change from our last 9 days since leaving Granite Park Chalet. Well, that was Nuthin’. Coming down, the volume of people seemed like a shock, both up to the Tunnel and to Iceberg Lake. I know, I know, it’s to be expected on a beautiful blue sky day on two of the most popular trails in the park…it just reminded us how much solitude we’d been able to enjoy the many previous days. Kids came running past, then running back to their parents and passing us again. Had a Disney feel about it. We would look at each other knowingly about how lucky we were to have had so much of the park all by our lonesomes, implied winks. It’s both familiar ground coming back from the Tunnel but just as beautiful as ever. Mt. Wilbur and Iceberg standing proud.
The more we descend the happier i am about those old Teva’s…no pinch on the Toesies. The sun if full-on, reminding me of the last time we’d come down this section after a marvelous day with Pete. He’d taken us on Shangri-La and it was gorgeous! Thanks again Pete. But our return was full-on sun just like today. I was in a sleeveless Tee and didn’t use enough sunscreen on a lot of treeless section of trail that the sun blazes upon. Just a shout-out to folks doing Iceberg for the first time…extra sunscreen and a hat. I gaze off left to Mt. Henkel hoping to see Grizz or Mtn Goat up high but nothing without optics.
Approaching Swiftcurrent, I actually wanted to slow down, savor those last few steps of trail in cool lovely shade with towering trees. Mike was charging on to that car as if we had an appointment, all business. We did stop at the Finish Line for a shot….looking 12 days worse for wear?? But certainly feeling great.
Leaving Many Glacier is usually one of those affairs where I’m cranking my head back for every last look but today the crowds have changed that aura for us. Cars line the drive almost from Swiftcurrent to the Many Glacier Hotel. Definitely a new era here. Looking forward down the road, time to go. Priority One: Two Sisters Cafe for our first real meal in a lonnnnng time. Oh Yessss, that is a cheeseburger smothered in chili! Sooo GOOD!!
After his traditional post trip cheeseburger, Mike had his Huck Pie a la mode with Huckleberry Ice Cream and it was as delicious as we’d remembered.
We have a 3 hour drive back to Great Falls through Browning and there is another incredible fire down south in what I suspect is the Bob Marshall Wilderness or maybe the eastern boundary of the Great Bear. With the heat and the winds, this fire looks to be blowing up as we drive. What a summer for Montana and its firefighters. They must be exhausted by now.
Moving on through Cut Bank, Mike reminisces about the summer he spent doing environmental cleanup work in 1998 and how they housed him in Cut Bank at the old Flying J Refinery site - right next to the railroad tracks. As the BNSF goes by, we laugh at hearing how loud the horn blow is and Mike’s summer of hearing that in stereo every night.
Thank you for following along and listening to a lot of prattle. People say ‘trip of a lifetime’ way too much, but 12 days in Glacier’s backcountry is right up there! Til next time…..