Note: The Highline Trail/Swiftcurrent Pass hike has been dubbed the "Hockey Ref Hike" by Glacier chat page users who like my description of it. So here goes...
The Highline Trail/Swiftcurrent Pass hike is one of the most spectacular day hikes Glacier has to offer. Some consider it Glacier's "signature" hike, combining unsurpassed beauty, plenty of opportunities to encounter wildlife, and requiring only moderate physical effort.
There are several ways to enjoy this hike. To take advantage of its full 15-mile length (and don't let the distance dissuade you because it's not that difficult), take the morning hiker shuttle from the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn in the Many Glacier region to Logan Pass. You'll arrive at the visitor center around 9:30. The Highline trailhead is located across the road from the visitor center parking lot. Make sure to top off your water containers at the visitor center before heading out.
The day's first adventure begins with a series of narrow ledges along a cliff face known as the Rimrock area which soars a couple of hundred feet above the Going-to-the-Sun Road. But don't worry, it sounds scarier than it really is. And there's a cable to grab for the faint-of-heart.
Once past the ledges, the Highline heads northward along the Garden Wall and parallels the Continental Divide as it makes its way 7.5 miles to Granite Park Chalet. Spectacular vistas unfold every step of the way -- 500-foot high Birdwoman Falls cascades from a verdant hanging valley; snow-capped Heaven's Peak towers above the neighboring mountains; and McDonald Creek cascades through McDonald Valley on its way to Lake McDonald, the largest body of water in Glacier. In the earlier part of the season, waterfalls fed by melting snow tumble across the trail from above. Later, the meadows around the trail blaze with wildflowers. If you're making a one-way trip, be sure to turn around from time to time and check out the views behind you.
Chances are good that you'll encounter mountain goats and bighorn sheep along the way, along with marmots, ground squirrels, and other smaller mammals. You might even get lucky enough to spot a bear or two, so keep standard bear safety in mind.
By the way, if you encounter goats or sheep walking on the trail, the rangers ask that you NOT step aside to let them pass. Instead, stay on the trail so that the animals will step off. The rangers prefer that the animals stay off the trail as much as possible, and humans giving them the right-of-way simply encourages them.
The hike to Granite Park Chalet is relatively flat, with only a few short uphill portions. For those with a limited amount of time, simply park at the Logan Pass visitor center and walk as far as time allows before turning around. A possible goal for those short on time is a saddle behind a rock formation known as Haystack Butte about 3.5 miles from the trailhead at Logan Pass. The butte is the large, flat-topped rock formation visible to the north from the trailhead.
About a mile before reaching the chalet a steep spur trail takes hikers to an overlook of Grinnell Glacier. The views from the saddle above the glacier are truly spectacular and well worth the effort. Keep in mind that you cannot leave backpacks at the foot of the overlook trail. To climb to the overlook without your pack you'll need to continue to the chalet, leave your pack there, and return.
Granite Park Chalet is a good place to stop for lunch (bring your own) as it is the halfway point for those going all the way to the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. The view from the chalet is not to be missed, so make your lunch a leisurely one. And for those who have advance reservations, the chalet also is a great place to spend the night. Additonal info on the chalet is available at:
http://www.graniteparkchalet.com/
Atop nearby Swiftcurrent Mountain, a peak just to the north and above the chalet, you'll spot a fire lookout. Those who make the steep ascent are rewarded with a 360-degree view of Glacier that they won't get anywhere else.
After lunch, there's a quick climb of several hundred feet to the summit of Swiftcurrent Pass. This is the most climbing you'll do all day (unless you check out the Grinnell overlook or the fire lookout), and it's not all that much. On the other side of the pass is one of the most spectacular views Glacier has to offer. All of Swiftcurrent Valley stetches out some 2,300 feet below you, with a chain of lakes leading your eye toward the Many Glacier Hotel in the distance and the start of the Great Plains even further beyond (bring binoculars).
You'll make your way down a series of switchbacks along the cliff face, passing silky ribbon waterfalls fed by melting snow, until you finally reach the valley floor. The trail works its way through low underbrush with Mt. Wilbur and Mt. Henkel on the left and Grinnell Peak rising on the right. Be sure to look for moose browsing in the brush and along the lake shores or mule deer grazing on the ridges. A nice final rest stop is Red Rock Falls at the head of Red Rock Lake, about 2.5 miles from the end of the hike. Sitting on the rocks above the falls provides a good overall view of the valley, the lake, and the surrounding mountains.
The hike ends in the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn parking lot. All in all, this is a 15-mile day, but the lack of any significant uphill makes it quite doable for anyone who's in reasonable shape and who is willing to make the effort. One of the keys to making this a successful hike is to carry adequate water supplies, especially on hot days.
As noted earlier, you can shorten the day by hiking only a portion of the Highline. Even hiking just a mile or two will give you an idea of the incredible beauty this trail has to offer.
Another alternative is to hike the Highline to Granite Park Chalet then descend to the GTTS Road via the Loop Trail. In the past this route has not been considered quite as scenic as others, but reports since the 2003 fires indicate that it has taken on a new-found beauty. Descending to the GTTS Road via the Loop Trail makes it easy to connect with the hiker shuttle and return to your vehicle at Logan Pass. Just keep the shuttle schedule in mind to avoid missing the last one of the day.
One other thing...the Highline Trail doesn't open until all the snow has melted from the Rimrock ledge areas and the hand cables have been installed. The Swiftcurrent Pass trail also is dependent on snow melting before it is opened. This is typically in late June, or even early July. So if you're planning a trip to Glacier and the Highline Trail is on your list, make sure it's during a time when the trail is sure to be open.
So that's the Highline Trail/Swiftcurrent Pass hike, aka the "Hockey Ref Hike." Hope you enjoyed it. I've hiked it three of the last four times I've been to Glacier, and I can't wait to do it again.
Hockey Ref
(updated January 2009)