December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

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Sue Z
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December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by Sue Z »

♫♫ "For it's a long, long while, from July to December..." ♫♫ Now that it's starting to get dark around 3 pm, I've been relying on memories of Glacier to cheer myself up. (It works!) So here's a long overdue trip report of another glorious visit to GNP. This summer's expedition was my third. Unlike the previous two, it didn't include any backpacking. Instead, I hoped to cover more ground by taking long day hikes (lighter pack). I also wanted to check off some bucket list hikes while I'm able (I'm in my 60s). The group consisted of my husband, Dave, my 24-year old son, Steve, his friend Wisdom, and me. We flew into Kalispell, so we tackled the west side hikes first. Unfortunately, there was no time for a warm-up hike, and day one was a 14-miler: The Highline Trail to the Loop, with a side hike to the Grinnell Glacier overlook. We hit the trail in a cold fog at 7 am, but within an hour it it was only mildly hazy.

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Spirea
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After a quick meal at lunch rock, the men decided to do some exploring on the slopes of Haystack Mountain. I knew I didn't have any energy to spare, so I forged ahead alone on the Highline. About 40 minutes later a couple of bighorns came barreling down the trail towards me, with no sign of yielding. I barely had time to find a safe place to scramble down the steep slope off the trail.

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I continued on alone to the overlook. The uphill slog in the heat of the day felt a lot longer than it appeared on the map. It was blessedly cool and windy at the overlook, and I enjoyed the view for about half an hour before the guys caught up to me.

Upper Grinnell Lake and Grinnell Glacier
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Four Lakes
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Angel Wing
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The foot-pounding trudge down to the loop was a dusty, sweaty march, but after a quick change of clothes, we rallied for dinner at the Belton Chalet. By the time we got back to our lodging in Columbia Falls, however, I was cooked. I paused briefly to take off my boots and collapsed on the bed, where I remained, fully clothed, until 6 am.

To be continued.
Sue Z
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by teapot57 »

Excellent start to your trip report, Sue! That was a big hike for your first day in the park. Looking forward to hearing more.
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by joybird »

Thanks for this! 8)
Feels like an early Christmas gift to have a Chatter trip report in the midst of the December grays! :wink:
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by al_in_al »

Great pictures! I hope I can make it to the glacier overlook next year.

Eagerly waiting for the rest of your report.
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by Sue Z »

Thanks for your kind encouragement, teapot, joybird, al and dpratt!

So, not waking up until 6 am meant that we were already behind schedule for the second hike - another 14 miler - from Jackson Glacier Overlook to Sperry Chalet on the Gunsight Pass Trail. (I hit the jackpot last winter when I got a reservation for 3 nights at the chalet.) I'm a slow but steady hiker who stops to smell the roses (and photograph them), and I had figured on a leisurely 8 - 10 hours. With the goal of arriving in time for the 6 pm dinner, we had to hustle to pack our packs, move out of the B&B, drop off a duffel of goodies to be carried up by mule, and get to the trailhead by 8 am. About 3 miles down the trail, I tripped and fell, which, sadly, is not out of the ordinary for me. I'm usually good for one klutzy spill per trip - a reliable source of much hilarity in my family, as I've fallen into mud, shrubbery, etc., over the years. This time, the line securing my scree gaiter under my boot had become a little loose, and snagged on a root. I couldn't free my foot to recover, and slammed into the ground chest first. It was epic. It knocked the wind out of me, and it took a few minutes before I could let my son help me up. I popped a couple of vitamin A (Advil) tablets, continued on, and was rewarded with this view.

(L to R) Mt. Jackson, Gunsight Pass, Fusillade Mountain.
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The Pep Boys wanted to take a side hike to Florence Falls, but again, I had to decline. We agreed to meet at Gunsight Lake, and I enjoyed the next two views all by myself.

Blackfoot and Jackson Glaciers with fireweed.
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Mt. Jackson
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I had lunch at the lake before the guys caught up to me. Not gonna lie, the next three miles up to the pass looked daunting, so I took off alone again to get a little head start while the fellas ate their lunch.

Gunsight Pass above Gunsight Lake
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A couple of miles up the trail I ran into this cheeky goat, who had the temerity to begin gnawing on my hiking pole handles while I was trying to photograph him! A sharp "absolutely not!" discouraged him enough for me to recover my poles.

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More goat games followed after the men caught up. Here, a herd with a kid occupied the trail and surrounding area at the edge of a drop-off. To pass or not to pass? We decided against possibly getting butted off the side of the mountain, and commenced to make a long, steep detour above the goats.

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The views continued to amaze as we gained the pass and trekked the final 5 miles, exhausted and pushing hard not to miss dinner.

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Gunsight Lake, with Going to the Sun Mountain, center, and Matahpi Peak to its left.
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Lake Owen Wilson, as my son calls it. (Lake Ellen Wilson)
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Guard Goats of Glacier: You Shall Not Pass!
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We arrived at the chalet dining hall at 6:03, and were shown to our table just as they were beginning to serve the salads. Mission accomplished!

To be continued.
Sue Z
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by davidwayne »

Thank you for the great pics and report! Looking forward to more!
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by Jay w »

Sure hope that mule brought up some alcohol since alcohol leads to poor choices and poor choices lead to good stories. :D

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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by PeteE »

Jay w wrote:Sure hope that mule brought up some alcohol since alcohol leads to poor choices and poor choices lead to good stories. :D
Jay
I can do "poor choices" without alcohol 8)

Sue:
I love your TR. :)

The side trip to the Grinnell overlook is a bugger but well worth it.
Your grueling Gunsight Pass hike has me thinking of doing it a 3rd time before I'm too feeble.

The "stumbling" thing is something I suffer from as well. 8) Glad you weren't hurt badly.

pete :wink:
"If you are not curious, you will learn nothing" -Goethe-

"When you're born in this world, you're given a ticket to the freak show.
And when you're born in America, you're given a front row seat."

George Carlin
Sue Z
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by Sue Z »

PeteE wrote: Glad you weren't hurt badly.

pete :wink:
Hmmm. Define badly. :D Turns out, I had a broken rib. But I didn't know that at the time. I thought I was just bruised. But you're right, it wasn't bad enough to be a deal breaker, thank goodness.

To continue the report, dinner revived us quite a bit, and afterwards we broke out the magic duffel, which, as Jay surmised, contained wine - enough for all three nights, I hoped. This is where I have to thank the chatter who posted about hosting a wine party at the chalet. I think maybe it was toddnick. (Perhaps someone with a better memory can confirm that?) I owe him a tremendous debt of gratitude. We set up on the terrace with the wine and some plastic cups, and invited all the guests to join us. They were delighted and very enthusiastic! We met many wonderful and interesting people. It was a joyous highlight of the trip. One woman was so grateful that she offered to carry out some of the empty boxes for us! After a couple more advils and a few glasses of wine, I was feeling pretty grateful myself.

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Sue Z
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by isleroyaleguy »

Great stuff SueZ,
Loving all the beautiful pics and storyline.
Looks like you had a wonderful time,
Looking forward to your next installment.
IRG
Sue Z
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by Sue Z »

To continue: I didn't exactly spring out of bed the next morning. Two 14-mile days in a row, a raft of wine and a broken rib had not gone unnoticed by my aging body. Dave and Wisdom looked pretty good, but Steve was limping noticeably. I investigated, diagnosed him with a sore knee ligament, adjusted his boot insole and administered advil. My medical skills are limited.

We made our way to the dining hall and fueled up big time on the first hot breakfast of our trip. It was stellar. Over breakfast, Wisdom told us of an encounter he had during the night with a goat blockade as he tried to make his way to the bathroom in the, um, wee hours. He was rescued by a staff member, Rachel, who was also up to answer nature's call, and who used her vast experience to clear the critters from the path.

We had planned to take it easy and recover a bit on this second day of our "Sperry Experience," before making the long climb up to Sperry Glacier on the third day. I was looking forward to a short hike to the summit of Lincoln Peak to see the view of Lincoln Lake and Beaver Chief Falls, and maybe a little bushwhacking/exploring around the Lincoln Pass and Sperry Chalet areas. But while Day 2 was shaping up to be a sunny one, the forecast for Day 3 was rain. I decided we had better make the 8-mile round trip to the glacier while the sun was shinin'. Lincoln Peak would have to wait. And that's how we ended up having our third long, strenuous day in a row.

There were lots of interesting things to see on the 1,400-foot ascent to Comeau Pass, and I was happy for the distractions; My broken rib ached and it hurt to breathe - especially since I was huffing and puffing my way uphill like the Little Engine That Could.

A slippery bridge
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Rickety rock-hopper
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Akaiyan Lake
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Stairway to heaven
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Top-of-the-world view
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The hike over to the glacier was mildly treacherous. The soft snow was very slippery, and Microspikes weren't much help with that. There was also some hidden danger, as Wisdom found out when postholed up to his waist into a cavity concealed beneath the snow.

Snow hole after removal of Wisdom's leg
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Melt ponds and mountaintops
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We had lunch and explored the glacier area before heading back down to the Chalet. The men took a long break, which included hot beverages, cookies and a snooze, in the lakes area. I stopped only briefly, then forged ahead as usual, but they still arrived at the chalet only a few minutes behind me.

Dude Descending a Staircase
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Siesta in the sun
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Uplifting
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I'm molting! Molting!
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We had another wonderful wine party on the ledges that evening, where I had the pleasure of chatting with a professor from the U. of Montana who knew much local history. She was involved in a project related to Montana author Ivan Doig, whose signature book I had just read, which made for good conversation.
Sue Z
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Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by joybird »

Sue Z wrote: in the wee hours....
Uplifting....
I'm molting! Molting!....
[etc...]

:lol:

Oh my, thank you. :wink:

More trip report, please. :mrgreen:
Jen

Re: December Song (July-Aug 2016 Trip Report)

Post by Jen »

Best trip report I have read all year! No, seriously! :mrgreen:

"Lake Owen Wilson".  :lol:

I am so glad the wine bar tradition continues! Well done!

Ready for the next installment!

:arrow:
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