First ever Glacier trip!

Are you a seasoned hiker, or just starting out? Let us know your questions or experience with the backcountry permit process.

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Bdavis32
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First ever Glacier trip!

Post by Bdavis32 »

Hello all!

My wife and I put in for a permit and just received an email confirming our itinerary. While we didn't get exactly what we asked for, we did ok. I have a few logistical questions and other randoms as I have never been to Glacier NP before. Here is the schedule:

BOW trailhead to BOW hd
BOW to HOL
HOL to BRO
BRO to Goat Haunt...exit at Goat Haunt.

We originally wanted FRA instead of BRO so that's slightly disappointing but we'll definitely see if there is a walkin available for FRA (or HAW or JAN) when we pick up the permit. And where would be the most convenient to pick up the permit? (sorry I'm a newb!!) Coming from Fort Collins via KC so from 89 north.

So if we park at BOW and end at Goat Haunt, how do we get back to our car? I have done some research on shuttles but haven't really seen one that does this trip. I am missing it? Second, with this itinerary, where is the best fishing? We were going to bring our fly rods and hope to get in some casts. Are there any spots near HOL or BRO, especially? That is such a short distance b/w camps so I thought we could get a good amount of fishing in that day. Also any advice on what type of flies to bring would be appreciated. I am from the midwest so I'm sure eating habits are different.

Thanks again and can't wait to get to Glacier for the first time! :arrow: :arrow:

Cheers!
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by isleroyaleguy »

Congrats on getting a great trip.
Maybe you will be able to switch to FRA at the time you pick up permit. It will be well worth it for the scenery and for good fishing.
You can use shuttles to get back to Apgar, but then you will have to figure a way to get back to Bowman. Possibly hitching a ride or maybe line up a ride thru this forum.
As for fishing lures, I use a spinning rig and a small Mepps type lures or Super Duper or Jakes type lures.
Maybe someone will have fly fishing suggestions.

IRG
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by smahurin »

Awesome trip! I would definitely try on the HOL->BRO (or francis) day to hike up above the hole in the wall campground along the cirque and at least go part way to boulder pass. Hole in the wall campground is amazing and it just gets better and better the higher up on the cirque you are in my opinion.

As far as logistics its a difficult one. The easy part is where to pick up your permit. Depending on where you are staying the night before you could easily pick up your permit at either Apgar or at polebridge. Whichever is more handy. As far as getting back to your car, thats a little trickier. This is the way I can think of:

GPI runs an east side hiker shuttle. However, while it does visit the prince of wales in waterton, I believe it only operates in waterton as a round trip transportation for people who start in the US... I could be wrong though. So what I believe you'll have to do is hire tamarack outfitters in waterton to shuttle you to the border. Walk across the border, and then you can pick up the GPI shuttle and take it from customs down to st. mary. Keep in mind I think the trip from waterton back to bowman will likely take you 2-days. You'll have to hike from brown pass to goat haunt. Catch a boat. Get your tamarack outfitters shuttle to the border and the GPI shuttle leaves chief mountain customs at 3:45pm. the GPI shuttles makes a stop in many glacier (sort of out of the way) and you won't get to st. mary to 5:30. So you might want to try and reserve a campsite at st. mary campground that night. Get up the next morning take the going to the sun road shuttle across to apgar. And then hitch hike up to bowman. Commercial transport services are not allowed to operate inside the north fork region of glacier national park... so hitch hike or arranging a ride from a friend (or chatter) is your only option to get back to bowman. So ya... not to discourage you, but its just logistically very difficult. But it can certainly be done. Do note though that there isn't a ton of travel between apgar and polebridge/bowman so you might be thumbing a while until a compassionate soul picks you up to give you a ride... but I would think someone will at some point.

http://www.glacierparkinc.com/shuttle_information.php
http://www.hikewaterton.com/shuttles/

Edit; Someone might know a better way to make this trip back to the car, thats just the only way I know of.

While this would be a slight itinerary change if you are up for it, what you could do is try and swap out the brown pass campsite with upper kintla that last night when you get your permit. And do a semi-loop from bowman to kintla. Would be much easier to hitch a ride from kintla back to bowman. But it adds significant mileage and elevation gain to your trip which might not be ideal. Just a thought.
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by PeteE »

smahurin wrote:While this would be a slight itinerary change if you are up for it, what you could do is try and swap out the brown pass campsite with upper kintla that last night when you get your permit. And do a semi-loop from bowman to kintla. Would be much easier to hitch a ride from kintla back to bowman. But it adds significant mileage and elevation gain to your trip which might not be ideal. Just a thought.
This idea, or some variation of it beginning at Bowman and ending at Kintla, is a better idea imo.
Consider...
If you had a car waiting at the boat dock in Waterton, it would take ~4 hours to drive to Bowman Lake.
Taking the shuttle(s) and hitching would be possible--and I'm sure someone has done it.
No telling how long it took or the hassles on the way e.g shuttle space or delays.
I live here and I would never choose your original itinerary if I had to shuttle/hitchhike.
Way too many "moving parts" for me.

I've hitched many times within the park; that's usually pretty easy.
Hitching from Apgar, the last shuttle stop, to Polebridge, and then to Bowman could be easy, or not. There's no way to know.

Sooo...
I would suggest you get a itinerary change, drive your car to Kintla, then hitch back to Bowman to begin your trip.
The hike out to BOW is easy; you'll have plenty of time to do it after stashing your car at kintla and hitching back to Bowman.

pete :wink:
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by Bdavis32 »

Turns out after all my research on where to hike, I forgot about logistics on getting back to my car :oops: Thanks for all the suggestions. It sounds like the easiest thing to do is try and amend the permit so we exit Kintla Lake rather than Goat Haunt. How would I go about doing that? Would I just have to cross my fingers upon walking in to get my permit? Or is there a way to do it ahead of time?

I also tossed around the idea of getting our permit in Apgar, renting a car in Whitefish, driving it to Chief Mnt trailhead and dropping it off. Then taking our car to Bowman. Catch the Waterton shuttle after our hike to the border where we dropped off the rental car and back to Whitefish to drop off rental? Am I taking crazy pills?

It would be awesome if I could find a service/amazing person to just pick us up at Chief Mtn trailhead parking lot and drive us to Bowman 8) That would just solve all our problems. Of course I had a cousin in Whitefish and she just moved to KC 2 months ago :? Go figure.

Thanks again!
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by isleroyaleguy »

Bdavis32 wrote:Turns out after all my research on where to hike, I forgot about logistics on getting back to my car :oops: Thanks for all the suggestions. It sounds like the easiest thing to do is try and amend the permit so we exit Kintla Lake rather than Goat Haunt. How would I go about doing that? Would I just have to cross my fingers upon walk
ing in to get my permit? Or is there a way to do it ahead of time?

I also tossed around the idea of getting our permit in Apgar, renting a car in Whitefish, driving it to Chief Mnt trailhead and dropping it off. Then taking our car to Bowman. Catch the Waterton shuttle after our hike to the border where we dropped off the rental car and back to Whitefish to drop off rental? Am I taking crazy pills?

It would be awesome if I could find a service/amazing person to just pick us up at Chief Mtn trailhead parking lot and drive us to Bowman 8) That would just solve all our problems. Of course I had a cousin in Whitefish and she just moved to KC 2 months ago :? Go figure.

Thanks again!
Ya...your only option is to alter permit at the time of pickup.
You will be able to see a chart of campsite availability the day before you pick up your's. You will know then if it's possible. Then you would have to be up early and in line at office to have best shot at changing itinerary.
It's best to have a plan B, even a plan C.
As for your driving idea.
I'm sure it can be done, but ya...crazy talk!
Good luck
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by smahurin »

Bdavis32 wrote:Turns out after all my research on where to hike, I forgot about logistics on getting back to my car :oops: Thanks for all the suggestions. It sounds like the easiest thing to do is try and amend the permit so we exit Kintla Lake rather than Goat Haunt. How would I go about doing that? Would I just have to cross my fingers upon walking in to get my permit? Or is there a way to do it ahead of time?

I also tossed around the idea of getting our permit in Apgar, renting a car in Whitefish, driving it to Chief Mnt trailhead and dropping it off. Then taking our car to Bowman. Catch the Waterton shuttle after our hike to the border where we dropped off the rental car and back to Whitefish to drop off rental? Am I taking crazy pills?

It would be awesome if I could find a service/amazing person to just pick us up at Chief Mtn trailhead parking lot and drive us to Bowman 8) That would just solve all our problems. Of course I had a cousin in Whitefish and she just moved to KC 2 months ago :? Go figure.

Thanks again!
Also, as Macchia mentioned, if you can't change your permit when you get there (if the other spots are taken) you can always keep your campgrounds and just hike back out to bowman campground from brown pass that last day. Again, its a fairly long day, 13.8miles, but obviously the logistics are much easier.

The options are plentiful if you want to try and change your itinerary though. You could try for the bowman to kintla option (swapping brown pass for UPK). Or you could try for the reverse (swapping your first night at BOW for UPK and go from kintla to bowman and hitch back). Or you could swap the bowman lake first night to say francis/janet/bro/hol and just do an out and back from waterton/goat haunt. This option is likely only realistic if you pick up your permit the day before though as you wouldn't be able to pick up your permit in apgar or polebridge and drive all the way around to waterton to catch the boat and hike in unless your first stop ended up being pretty close to goat haunt I would think. Just some thoughts to consider. You can obviously do whatever you want (and is available) or even keep your itinerary and shuttle all the way around.
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by Bdavis32 »

You guys have been super helpful. Thanks very much! I guess I'll just hope for good luck when I pick up the permit. Definitely planning on going the day before and being early to pick the permit up! I am leaning towards Bowman to Kintla or vice versa IF possible. Once we drop the car off, is there a difference in traffic going to Bowman or Kintla? As in, is it easier to hitchhike to Bowman or from Bowman? Or is it pretty much the same? Wasn't sure if one route had more 'traffic' than the other...

Thanks again!
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by smahurin »

I would guess (but this is a guess) it'll be easier to hitch hike from kintla back to bowman. Simply because kintla is the end of the line. I know a group who did this, who were going from bowman to kintla, but dropped their car off early AM the day they started the hike and hitched back to bowman to hike into bowman BC campground. This way they were able to catch the traffic leaving the kintla campground the morning they dropped off the car instead of trying to catch people pulling out of kintla later in the evening after they had finished their hike. Plus their car was waiting for them when they got done with the trail. Dunno if thats the best way, but worked for them. Seems to make sense too.
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by PeteE »

Bdavis32 wrote:You guys have been super helpful. Thanks very much! I guess I'll just hope for good luck when I pick up the permit. Definitely planning on going the day before and being early to pick the permit up! I am leaning towards Bowman to Kintla or vice versa IF possible. Once we drop the car off, is there a difference in traffic going to Bowman or Kintla? As in, is it easier to hitchhike to Bowman or from Bowman? Or is it pretty much the same? Wasn't sure if one route had more 'traffic' than the other...

Thanks again!
Regarding changing your permit:
IRG is correct. You're only option is to get a modification when you pick up your permit on the morning before your trip begins.
And being at the Back Country Office in Apgar early is very good advice.

Keep in mind there will be people at every park location wanting permit changes just like you.
The new system seems to be working much faster and more efficiently this year.
Minutes will count that morning. Were I you, I would plan to be at the office no later than 5:30AM.
Take a book and be 1st in line. There will be many others coming. You won't regret the hassle.

The BC Office closes at 5PM. At that time they post a list of the available campsites on the door, and On-Line.
This is what it looks like:
http://home.nps.gov/applications/glac/b ... status.cfm
There are no "dates", just the number of days out(6 days) from the current date
A Black Square indicates that there are no sites available at that location for that day.
If the space has a number, there are that number of sites available.
As I type this Bowman Lake(BOW) looks like this at 4:46PM
BOW - BOWMAN LK, HD 5 5 6 6 6 6
You can see that 1 site has been assigned for Saturday and Sunday, and therefore 5 still available. Make sense?

So the afternoon/evening before you pick up your permit, check this posting at the office or on-line.
You'll know right then if Kintla Lake(KIN) is available on the 2nd, 3rd, whatever day out.(If KIN is your choice to sub for Brown Pass)
UPK, Upper Kintla would also work for you imo. It's longer going out, but if the "geezer" and get back from UPK in a day, you can too 8)
And frankly, I like Upper Kintla(UPK) campground better than Kintla(KIN), but either will work well for you.
Personally, I like to have my act together when I walk in. I show them what I want in this form, although it's not necessary.
You now have BOW-->HOL-->BRO--> out at Goat Haunt.
I would suggest BOW-->HOL-->UPK--out at Kintla Lake
or
BOW-->HOL-->KIN--> out at Kintla Lake
If you have time and Boulder Pass(BOU) will fit, I would add BOU after HOL.
Then your trip would look like BOW-->HOL-->BOU-->KIN or UPK--> out at Kintla Lake.
I bet most here would agree that adding BOU, making it a 4 niter, is a good idea if possible.

And last, I would suggest ending at Kintla Lake rather than Bowman because.
Kintla Lake has 14 car camp sites. Bowman has 48.
I believe it would be easier to leave your car at Kintla and hitch back to Bowman.
Best chances of this working are for you to get to Kintla asap after picking up your permit.
The reason being that people checking out from Kintla will do it in the morning and therefore there will be a better chance of catching a ride back to where the Bowman Lake road intersects the road back from Kintla(see a map)
And since Bowman has 48 sites there will likely be more traffic headed out to Bowman by the time you hitch back.
Make sense?
I hasten to add that there is no certainty about hitching in that area, but it's worth the effort if you get that itinerary--a very desirable one indeed!

That's my advice for you.

Cheers and good luck!

pete :wink:

PS

You want to keep in touch here. You may find out in the coming weeks and months that someone else here will have an itinerary that would allow you to avoid hitching.

The rangers in the BC Office are extremely helpful in helping folks get changes to their reserved itineraries.
So if my explanation is "Greek" don't worry. The BC rangers do these type of changes every day.
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by Bdavis32 »

Sorry for the late response. I was keeping it weird in Austin this past weekend for a friends wedding and my 1st year wedding anniversary.

You guys rock! It looks like I have a few options. My first choice would prob be switching BRO for UPK and adding BOU is also very intriguing. I will definitely be at the back country office early as I would love to have this all work out for the better! Thanks again! You all are superbly helpful!

Cheers!
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by Bdavis32 »

Hello all. After some trip planning, I have a few questions.

1. I am 99.9% sure that I can pick up my permit at any ranger station in the park, correct?
2. If I were to add a day to my itinerary, would that mean I can go to pick up the permit one day earlier? So right now I have 3 nights that are on a Mon, Tues & Wed. If I wanted to add something for Sun night before, does that mean I can show up at the ranger station on Saturday and try to amend it? or do I have to go on Sunday since my original itinerary starts Monday?
3. Does anyone know at ROU if the fishing is any good on the river?
4. Is any kind soul gonna be at Kintla trailhead and heading out on Monday, August 24th and want to give my wife & I a ride to Bowman trailhead?

Thanks!
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Re: First ever Glacier trip!

Post by Ear Mountain »

Bdavis32 wrote:Hello all. After some trip planning, I have a few questions.
1. I am 99.9% sure that I can pick up my permit at any ranger station in the park, correct?
You can pick up permits at the Apgar Backcountry Center, Saint Mary VC, Two Medicine RS, Polebridge RS and the Waterton Lake VC. But only the Apgar Backcountry Center is open all day including through the lunch hour. All other locations are closed for an hour at lunch. Some open at 8 instead of 7. There are additional ranger stations in Glacier that do not issue permits. Walton, Logging and Cutbank are examples.
2. If I were to add a day to my itinerary, would that mean I can go to pick up the permit one day earlier? So right now I have 3 nights that are on a Mon, Tues & Wed. If I wanted to add something for Sun night before, does that mean I can show up at the ranger station on Saturday and try to amend it?
Yes. You can pick up a permit the day before your trip will start. But if you can't add that Sunday you most likely will have to come back Sunday for the permit that begins on Monday.
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