Hi Leslie:
We stayed in Waterton at two different places. One was the Waterton Glacier Suites and the other was the Crandell Mountain Lodge. Waterton Glacier Suites is air conditioned and the Crandell Mountain Lodge is not air conditioned. Both rooms are very nice. The Crandell is just like being at home, with fresh baked cookies served everyday. I have a journal entry on our Waterton trip at
http://travel.roughguides.com/planning/ ... alID=25800, which also has photos of the inside. The air conditioning was nice when we were there in 2003 because of all the smoke. In hindsight, I wished we had stayed there for both nights because the smoke smell made it very hard to sleep at night. Something also to take into consideration is how hot the past summers have been. I'm sad to say that I'm spoiled to air conditioning when it comes to sleeping.
One place I wouldn't recommend in Waterton is the Bayside Inn. We originally had reservations there and upon arrival went to view one of the rooms. We ended up viewing more than one room and they were all dirty. We refused to stay there even though we had our reservations for over a year. Glacier Suites is just a block or so away and is owned by the same people, but is much newer, nicer and cleaner. Plus its got air conditioning!
Hope this helps!