Two Weeks in Glacier. I8SumPie (That’s Dirty)

[Jen]

"Good humor is when you’re a couple seconds from a good a$$-kicking and pretend you don’t know it."


THAT is perfect

I am considering changing my signature line........

[Jay w]

7/28/11

Humping Henkel (That’s Dirty)

The neighbor, Keith Hollister, recommended climbing Henkel. “That would be a good one for you.” Justin, his son, gave me the low-down on the route and hinted at going left around the snowfield. When he was talking about how easy the climb was, I was skeptical. You know, climbers. Finally, he said, “I climbed it when I was eight.” OK, that’s perfect. As I thought about it, I’ve never climbed a peak unless you count Harney Peak with its stairs and handrails.

I packed light, which meant I left behind the big Canon and took Julie’s little point-and-shoot (another Canon). Consequently, I’m a little short on photos. I’m particularly short on climbing photos, so I went out and grabbed a few from Jimmy Chin.

Jimmy is one of those big wall type climbers (a stud) that takes great photos. Outside has featured his photography on some new climbs in Africa in the April, 2011 issue. (He’s on the cover.) I dug a little deeper for some photos on El Cap:

http://www.outsideonline.com/photo-gall ... pitan.html

I’ll use those to spice up the report and wow the people who look at pictures but don’t read the reports.

The Route


Conrad sorting the rack. (Photo: Jimmy Chin)

Henkel is the climb right behind Swiftcurrent Lodge.


(Photo: Julie Joy)

You start out on the Iceberg Lake Trail, once it takes a left and crosses a small stream, head uphill along the stream and follow the climber’s trail. The climber’s trail peters out, so I headed for the ravine. I kept looking right towards Altyn thinking there might be an easier route up by following the ridge to Henkel, but I didn’t spot one.

First band of Cliffs


Dave jugging lines. (Photo: Jimmy Chin)

The first band of cliffs is the most difficult part, particularly if you don’t spot the easy route up. At the base of the cliffs in the ravine, I was looking at a huge boulder that would put the one in “Raiders of the Lost Ark” to shame. I bet this one weighs more than our house, and it’s not really in a secure position. No way was I touching that rock. I started climbing left, but it looked like I could easily cliff out, so I nixed that idea. The route right was easier, but I hate starting a climb with something that will be difficult to down climb since I’ll probably be back in 15 minutes trying another route. What the hell, I got up an annoying little face and tried to remember the foot and hand holds. After that, the climb got easier.


Jimmy with his camera gear. (Photo: Dave Hahn)

Getting through the remainder of the first band of cliffs was just picking a route through the rat maze. Actually, it was kind of fun. Once on top, I made a point of marking the spot by looking backwards and noting a dead tree. Then it was on to the second band of cliffs.

Each step on the route required attention since the larger rocks may be loose and there’s scree everywhere. The scree on Henkel wasn’t as bad as the attempt of Atlyn from Apikuni last week.

Second Band of Cliffs




Ivo leading out on traverse. (Photo: Jimmy Chin)

This band was no problem, just pay attention and you’ll find your way. After this, then there’s a big, steep scree field and that was a hump. I’m in fairly good shape, but this slog ran the heart rates up for maybe an hour. I’d climb for 15 minutes (sub-threshold type of work) and then take a break and repeat.

The Final Push



I took a few pictures at the overlook into Kennedy Lake and then pushed the final few feet to the summit. The day was perfect. Sunny, not too windy and not too hot, and I had the whole climb to myself. I got Julie on the walkie-talkie and described where I was. She spotted the blue jacket and then was able to visually follow my progress coming down.







Looking left towards Many Glacier Hotel



Kennedy Lake



Panorama right



Heavenly view



Shangri-La on the left and Iceberg on the right



This hike is scheduled in the next couple of days.

Coming Down

I had one little slip and landed on a closed first on my knuckles. Fortunately, I was wearing gloves, but it still skinned a knuckle or two. That drove home the point that it’s worth taking a few extra minutes to avoid losing some skin on the way down.

I stopped to take a picture of some rocks (not too interesting or I’d show it) and I heard the radio crackle, “Are you taking a picture?” I forgot that I was being watched. Boy, I better be careful where I take a pee.

As I went through the final band of cliffs, I found a route down that was essentially a walk rather than a climb, so I could skip that annoying little down climb. For those looking to climb Henkel, the easy way up is to look for the first big dead tree to the right of the ravine (as you’re climbing).



I’m located lower center. Can’t see me, well that gives a sense of scale. (Photo: Julie)

When I talked to Keith and Justin, I mentioned that it was really a hump. It wasn’t difficult climbing, but it was a lot of physical work going up the scree. Justin said, that’s why he takes the left route. It’s easier to climb the rocks on the ridge than it is to slog the scree.

An Adult Beverage or Two


Ivo cracking a beer. (Photo: Jimmy Chin)

I looked at this climb and completely underestimated how long it would take and the energy output. I left at 9 am and got back about 2:30 or 3:00, and I think the vertical (which I didn’t check ahead of time) was 4000 ft. This actually ended up being the most physically demanding hike of the trip.

Julie mentioned that I’m half way through the trip on the trip reports. I responded with no way, no, I only have a few more hikes at Many Glacier and one at Two Medicine. I just checked my photo folders I’m half way through trip. Something’s gotta give. I might post a few days of just photos with some quick one liner comments.

Jay

[toddnick]

Jay...simply awesome....that first panorama right picture is breathtaking!!!!

[Jay w]

Thanks Todd. That photo was supposed to be larger but it didn't work. I'll try again:



Jay W

[ND]

I just glanced at the photos. Wow, that Henkel climb is tougher than I ever imagined and you did it solo! Amazing!

Since I did the Shangri La hike this year it was fun to see it from a different perspective.

Another wonderful TR segment.

[toddnick]

Not that you wanted the extra weight for that nasty ascent Jay; but you must have thought once or twice on the summit how nice it would have been to have your #1 camera with you as you took in the scenery....

[Farmgirl]

[Jay w]

7/29/11

An early morning near Babb.


Pano with 70-200 F4


Pano with 70-200 F4

Then it was breakfast (pancakes? coffee, paint stripper in a mug) and some downtime around the campsite.

In the afternoon, I took a very slow, some may say priestly, walk to HIdden Falls.


Nikon 28mm AIS


Nikon 55mm micro


Canon 24-105mm F4


Zeiss 21mm 2.8


Zeiss 21mm 2.8


Nikkor 55 micro


Jay

[Pocketlint]

You do great trip reports Jay!
Nice pics...was that "dead tree" just for me?
Todd told me the other day when we were doing Siyeh Pass that he didn't see the appeal of "dead tree" pics. Todd just doesn't understand, does he?

Yeeeehawwww!!

pocketlint

[Jay w]

Pocket, dead tree pics are for you.

7/30/11 Red Gap Pass

I guess I should write something for this hike. The hike starts at the Apikuni Falls parking lot (or the Many Glacier entrance station) and goes around the east end of the ridge that starts way back at Ptarmegan Wall. If you start at the Ranger Station, it cuts off a few miles, but I’ve heard the trail is “insanely steep.” I wanted to see the level path since I hadn’t hiked it.

The loop is something like 25 miles. Poia Lake is at about 6.5 miles, which is about of the start of the Kennedy Creek valley. The trail heads up the valley, switchbacks up to Red Gap Pass at about 12 miles, and heads down into Belly River. Instead of heading all the way down to Elizabeth Lake, you hang a left and head for Ptarmegan Tunnel (about 20 miles), and then hit auto pilot and head the final 5 miles home.

It was a fairly cool at 7:30 in the morning, so I stripped off the pants just before starting the hike.


Julie’s photo

The idea was to meet Julie at Ptarmegan Tunnel at 3 pm, and if one of us made it there first, to crank up the walkie-talkies and get an ETA on the other.


This photo as meant to show the lack of beargrass a few miles into the hike. During our trip, there was hardly any beargrass in bloom, and this was about the largest showing so far this trip. (All pictures with Julie’s point and shoot.)

Howdy
I ran into a couple from Texas at the Poia Lake campsite having a cup of tea. He wanted to know if the trail up the pass went around the left or right side of the lake and he came at me with a map. They were both probably lathered up with bug dope, but I hadn’t used any this trip or today. The skeeters were out for a meal and I didn’t feel like hanging around. Plus, the question seemed odd when you could walk a 200 feet and see for yourself. “I don’t have my glasses and I’m getting too old to read without them,” as I looked down at the blurred map, “But I think the trail goes around the right side of the lake.” I added, “I seem to remember reading that there’s a bridge over the outlet of the lake, so that would put you on the other side of the lake. But hey, my memory could easily be wrong.”

After leaving them, I walked a 200 feet and yup, the trail went around the right (north side) of the lake. I pulled out a burrito and had some lunch on the fly.

I pretty much had the trail to myself. I believe I passed a couple just past the bridge and didn’t see a second couple (with packs) until I hit the switchbacks at the head of the valley. There was an avalanche chute in the switchbacks that gave a pretty clear view of valley and Henkel from a few days back.



Near one of the last stream crossings in the switchbacks, I stopped and filtered water. At this time, I pondered a famous person quote, “Natural gas is hemispheric. I like to call it hemispheric in nature because it is a product that we can find in our neighborhoods.” Ok, time for another burrito on the fly so to speak.

Belly up for Another







The hike into Belly River was uneventful until I came to a little snow field crossing. It was just steep enough and the snow was hard enough that it put me near the edge of sliding. The slope of the snow increased as it ran downhill into a pile of rocks. I could have gone around the snow with snow bush-whacking, but a faint trail from previous hikers made for a challenge. I grabbed a couple of rocks, slowly crossed the field, and then left the rocks on the snow for the next hiker.



After reaching the junction with the Ptarmegan Tunnel trail, I found that I had plenty of time to hit the tunnel by 3 pm. So, time for photos.



This is a beautiful section of trail that probably gets less attention than it should because so many hikers are mules with heavy packs. (You know the saying that you want to be the lead dog because every other dog else has the same view.)







After reaching the tunnel, I couldn’t believe the tunnel had not been opened earlier. It must have been a lack of time rather than snow conditions that kept the tunnel closed because there was hardly any snow on the Belly River side.





Eat Some Bird
On the Ptarmegan Lake side of the tunnel, I sat and had lunch with the bar manager from MG Hotel. Every 10 minutes or so, I’d give Julie a call on the radio with no response. One interesting tid-bit the manager (forget his name) threw out, is that according to NPS policy, burgers have to be fully cooked (no pink) in any restaurant in the system. So, order emu if you want a decent burger.





After an hour or so of waiting for Julie, I finally headed downhill.


Some icebergs in Ptarmegan Lake

Be a Man
At the lake I found Julie reading in the sun. “Vher ist das radio Fräulein?” I asked in my best Major Hochstetter. “Mein radio ist in the campground,” she replied in her best Fräulein Hilda. I shook my head and smiled.

We sat around at the lake and a guy dove in and got out looking as if it was nothing. I said to him, “Be a man and swim across the lake. Come on man, get in there.” He didn’t take up the offer.

Ok, better end it here. We filled out a bear survey on the way home at the junction of Iceberg Road and Ptarmegan Way. The guy had a cast on his foot and hiked up with surveys and a couple chairs for people to sit. After going through an incredible hassle to get the permission to do a survey, he wasn’t going to left a broken bone stop him.

Jay

[Pocketlint]

I love reading your stuff!
GNP should hire you to do some of their promotions. Whoever has been doing it is way too stiff and starchy...imho.
j/k park ppl!!

pocketlint

PS

I noticed you humored me with another dead tree shot.

[Jay w]

Thanks Pocket, but that was more of a dead bush than a tree. More dead trees to come though.

Jay and Fräulein Hilda

[poky5mom]

So I'm reading the rest of your trip report laughing out loud - my daughter is looking at me like I am crazier than normal! Can I hire you to do my trip report! they are amazing as are your pictures!
Kim

[MarxMN]

Way back at the beginning of page 2 of this trip report in response to a question from Farmgirl Jay responded that he had attended a Glacier Chat event and suggested that it might have been my birthday party. A big correction - it was a birthday party in St. Paul but for July Guy. Other Chatters in attendance included July Girl, Tara, Kathy and Ralph Johnson and Jay W. That was the first time I met this entertaining writer.

[Jay w]

I just noticed Jen actually did change her signiture line. Hah. Marx, thanks for the correction. At least I got the city right.

Jay