Glacier Park Chat
I AWOKE FROM LIGHT SLEEP AND CHECKED THE TIME. I SLEEP VERY RESTLESS HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MONTANA WILDERNESS LAYING AWAKE JUST AS MUCH AS SLEEPING THROUGHOUT THE NIGHT AND THEN HIKING UP TO 15 MILES OF BACKCOUNTRY MOUNTAIN TRAIL WITH A WEEKS WORTH OF SUPPLIES ON MY BACK. BUT I AM IN BETTER SHAPE, BETTER ORGANIZED AND BETTER EQUIPPED NOW THAN I WAS AT AGE 17 AND TWICE AS MANY YEARS AGO WHEN I FIRST BACKPACKED THESE MOUNTAINS. BESIDES, THE LACK OF SLEEP DOESN'T BOTHER ME AS MY ADRENALINE LEVEL IS ALWAYS HIGH ON THESE TRIPS. TO QUOTE FRANKLINS MAXIM "THERE'S PLENTY OF TIME FOR SLEEP IN THE GRAVE".
I AROSE FROM MY TENT PROSTRATE AND AVERTED MY GAZE UP INTO THE DARK STAR FILLED SKY TO SEE THE HYADES AND PLEIADES TWINKLING HIGH IN THE HEAVENS DISPLAYING THE SIDEREAL MORNING HOUR. TO THE EAST JUTTING STRAIGHT UP FROM THE ROCKY ALPINE MEADOW I NOW RESIDE, A MASSIVE MOUNTAIN WALL OF SEDIMENTARY ROCK, CAPPED WITH A THIN SERRATED EDGE RUNNING NORTHWEST TO SOUTHEAST. REMNANTS OF AN ANCIENT INLAND SEA UP TO 1.6 BILLION YEARS OLD, UPLIFTED AND THEN CARVED BY GLACIERS. IT IS MID AUGUST IN NORTHERN MONTANA AND THE CHILLY NIGHT AIR WILL SOON BE WARMED BY THE DAY. EARLY MORNING IS ALWAYS A SPECIAL TIME AND I LOVE BEING THE FIRST TO RISE AND THE SERENITY OF BEING ALONE IN THIS RUGGED WILDERNESS. THE TREE TOPS HIGH ABOVE SWAY IN THE GENTLE BREEZE AND A HINT OF TWILIGHT IS BEGINNING BEHIND THE MOUNTAINS BUT IT IS STILL DARK AS NIGHT. I QUIETLY DON MY HEADLAMP AND BOOTS AND MAKE MY WAY OUT OF CAMP AND DOWN TRAIL TO THE BACKCOUNTRY PRIVY BEING CAREFUL NOT TO WAKE MY PARTNER STILL SLEEPING IN HER TENT. UNDERFOOT, THE DRY TRAIL CRUNCHES SOFTLY WITH EACH STEP I TAKE AND IS THE ONLY SOUND I HEAR SAVE THE WIND THROUGH THE TREE TOPS.
IT IS COLD ENOUGH TO SEE MY BREATH THIS MORNING, THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE DEW POINT IS EQUAL TO THE CURRENT AIR TEMPERATURE AND ON AVERAGE AT 45 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT, WHEN MY BREATH WHICH EXHALES AT 95 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT AND 95% HUMIDITY MIXES WITH THE OUTSIDE AIR AND REACHES 100% HUMIDITY. IF IT WAS WINDY I'M SURE I WOULD BE COLD, BUT MY DOWN JACKET IS KEEPING ME WARM DESPITE THE HIKING SHORTS I WEAR.
IT IS TO EARLY TO SHOUT OUT "DAAAAYO"! MY BEAR CALL, SO I SCAN MY SURROUNDINGS FOR YOGI AND BOO BOO. URSUS ARCTOS HORRIBILIS DOESN'T SLEEP MUCH THIS TIME OF YEAR. BEARS ARE DIURNAL, NOCTURNAL AND CREPUSCULAR. IN FACT THIS TIME OF YEAR THEY GO INTO HYPER FEEDING MODE TO BUILD UP THIER FAT RESERVES FOR THE LONG COLD WINTER AND CAN BE ACTIVE UP TO 20 OR MORE HOURS PER DAY. ON AVERAGE ADULT FEMALE GRIZZLIES WEIGH BETWEEN 290-440 LBS AND ADULT MALES BETWEEN 400-790 LBS. GRIZZLIES ARE THOUGHT TO HAVE THE BEST SENSE OF SMELL OF ANY TERRESTRIAL ANIMAL ON EARTH. BEARS CAN SMELL A CARCASS UP TO 18 MILES AWAY AND POLAR BEARS CAN SMELL A SEAL THROUGH 3 FEET OF ICE, AND I'M WORRIED ABOUT MAKING NOISE ON THE TRAIL AFTER 5 DAYS WITHOUT A SHOWER!
I MAKE MY WAY TO THE BEAR POLE WHERE MY STUFF SACKS CONTAINING MY FOOD CACHE, GARBAGE AND OTHER ODOROUS SUPPLIES ARE HANGING HIGH OUT OF THE BEARS REACH. AT THE TOP OF THE BEAR POLE THERE IS A FOOT LONG METAL PERPENDICULAR ARM WHERE LAST NIGHT I LOOPED A 30 FOOT LONG 3MM ROPE. AT THE WORKING END OF THE ROPE I TIED A BOWLINE KNOT AND ATTACHED A CARABINER. RUNNING THE CARABINER THROUGH THE LOOPS OF MY STUFF SACKS AND COMPLETING A LOOP WITH THE ROPE, I PUSHED THE BACK END OF THE ROPE THROUGH THE SPRING LOADED GATE OF THE CARABINER SECURING THE STUFF SACKS TO THE END OF THE ROPE. AFTER RAISING THE STUFF SACKS TO THE TOP OF THE BEAR POLE I TIED THE STANDING END OF THE ROPE TO A MUCH SMALLER METAL PERPENDICULAR ARM NEAR THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAR POLE USING A BIGHT KNOT FOR A QUICK SET AND RELEASE. REMOVING THE BIGHT I SLOWLY LOWER MY STUFF SACKS TO THE GROUND.
WE NEED TO EAT BREAKFAST AND BE ON TRAIL EARLY TODAY TO COVER THE 11.9 MILES AND 2 SCENIC OVERLOOKS TO OUR NEXT BACKCOUNTRY CAMP. AT THE FOOD PREP AREA I FILL MY SILVER TITANIUM CUP WITH WATER I FILTERED FROM THE ROCKY SNOW MELT CREEK THE EVENING LAST. GONE ARE THE DAYS WHEN I USED TO FILTER WATER WITH MY TEETH. TODAY IT IS MUCH EASIER TO CATCH CRYPTOSPORIDIUM, GIARDIA , E. COLI, SALMONELLA, HEPATITIS A ETC…
I FIRE UP MY BACKPACK STOVE. HEAT REMOVES AIR FROM WATER AND AIR BUBBLES SWIFTLY MULTIPLY ON THE INSIDE WALLS OF MY CUP AS STEAM BEGINS TO RISE FROM THE TOP. AT SEA LEVEL WATER BOILS AT 212 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT BUT BOILS 2 DEGREES LOWER FOR EVERY 1000 FEET OF ELEVATION GAIN AND AS I AM AT 7000 FEET, WATER BOILS AT 198 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. BOILING WATER IS REALLY MORE OF A FUNCTION OF AIR PRESSURE RATHER THAN TEMPERATURE AND HYPOTHETICALLY IF YOU WERE HIGH ENOUGH WATER WOULD START TO BOIL AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. ALSO, ONCE YOU HAVE REACHED THE BOILING POINT OF WATER YOU CAN NEVER GET THE WATER ANY HOTTER NO MATTER HOW HIGH YOU TURN THE FLAME, THE WATER WILL OF COURSE TURN TO WATER VAPOR.
I CLOSE THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE CUTTING THE FLOW OF THE ISOBUTANE/PROPANE FUEL MIX AND THE FLAME INSTANTLY DIES. POURING AN INSTANT COFFEE PACKET INTO MY CUP I MIX THE DRY BLACK POWDER WITH THE STEAMING WATER. THE COFFEE TASTES STRONG BUT GOOD AND I AM GOING TO NEED THE CAFFEINE BOOST TO QUICKLY START MY DAY. COFFEE IS THE WORLDS SECOND MOST VALUABLE TRADED COMMODITY BEHIND ONLY PETROLEUM AND THE LARGEST FOOD IMPORT OF THE USA AND I POSESS BOTH TO SUSTAIN ME MILES FROM CIVILIZATION.
BREAKING CAMP WE BID FAREWELL TO OUR CAMP ACQUAINTANCES AND HEAD DIRECTLY UP HILL TOWARDS THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL WHICH RUNS FROM CANADA TO MEXICO FOR 3100 MILES. ACCORDING TO WIKIPEDIA ONLY 2 DOZEN PEOPLE A YEAR HIKE THE CDT. THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE RUNS FOR 10,000 MILES FROM THE BERING STRAIGHT IN ALASKA TO THE STRAIGHT OF MAGELLAN AT THE SOUTHERN TIP OF SOUTH AMERICA AND SEPARATE THE WATERSHEDS THAT DRAIN RIVER SYSTEMS INTO THE PACIFIC OCEAN FROM THOSE THAT DRAIN INTO THE ATLANTIC OCEAN, ADD THAT TO YOUR BUCKET LIST!
MY TRIP BEGAN 6 DAYS AGO AT THE GLACIER NATIONAL PARK ST. MARY CAMPGROUND WHERE THE DISTANT DIN OF LOUD MUSIC FROM THE NEARBY TOWN OF ST. MARY PLAYED WELL PAST MIDNIGHT. THANKFULLY I BROUGHT EARPLUGS FOR FRONT COUNTRY CAMP NOISE. IT SEEMED SO INCONGRUOUS TO HEAR LOUD PULSATING MUSIC AS I LAY IN MY TENT AT THE EDGE OF A MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS AND AT THE BEGINNING OF WHAT I THINK IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND APTLY NAMED MOUNTAIN ROAD IN THE LOWER 48, GOING TO THE SUN ROAD.
I LAY IN MY TENT WAITING FOR SLEEP TO TAKE ME AT THE END OF ALL THE PLANNING, PREPARATION, AND PHYSICALLY CONDITIONING, AND AT THE BEGINNING OF ANOTHER BACKPACKING ADVENTURE IN MONTANA'S GLACIER NATIONAL PARK.
DAY 1
AUGUST 15 2013
SWIFTCURRENT PARKING LOT 4887' TO POIA LAKE 5785'
APPROX 7.4 MILES
1300' UP 415' DOWN
WITH THE FIRST PEAK OF DAWN WE STARTED OUR DAY, THE BEGINNING OF A 5 NIGHT BACKCOUNTRY TRIP DOING THE VERY POPULAR "NORTH CIRCLE" ROUTE. I HAD ADVANCE PERMITTED THE ROUTE IN THE BC LOTTERY AND HIT THE JACKPOT WHEN I WAS AWARDED MY FIRST CHOICE ITINERARY PERMITTING IN THE MID 300'S. THE DAY I RECEIVED THE EMAIL I COULDN'T BELIEVE MY EYES AND HAD TO READ IT SEVERAL TIMES TO MAKE SURE I WASN'T READING IT WRONG. AFTER DOING A SNOOPY DANCE I IMMEDIATELY TEXTED MY PARTNER AND SAID "GET READY TO BE HAPPY"!
FROM ST MARY CAMP MY PARTNER AND I WALKED OVER TO PICK UP OUR BC PERMIT AT THE ST MARY VISITOR CENTER VIA THE LONG FOOT BRIDGE SPANNING THE RIVER CHANNEL CONNECTING ST MARY LAKE TO LOWER ST MARY LAKE. THE NPS CHARGES $5 PER NIGHT PER PERSON IN THE BC, LESS THAN A BIN OF POPCORN AT YOUR LOCAL MOVIE THEATER. $5 A NIGHT TO CAMP IN A MILLION ACRE PLAYGROUND EQUALS .000005 CENTS PER ACRE. YOU HAVE TO LOOK BACK TO JEFFERSON'S LOUISIANA PURCHASE FOR ROUGHLY 3 CENTS AN ACRE OR SEWARDS PURCHASE OF ALASKA FOR 2 CENTS AN ACRE FOR A DEAL THAT GOOD.
WITH OUR BACKPACKS LOADED AND AT THE READY WE DROVE OUR CAR TO MANY GLACIER AND PARKED AT THE NOW EMPTY BUT SOON TO BE FULL SWIFTCURRENT PARKING LOT WHERE WE WOULD EXIT SWIFTCURRENT TRAIL IN 6 DAYS. FRESHLY SHOWERED AND DRESSED WE TOOK THE OBLIGATORY "START OF TRIP PHOTO" AND STARTED HIKING EAST ON THE MANY GLACIER ROAD AND IN ABOUT A MILE WE WERE AT THE TRAIL HEAD FOR POIA LAKE. FROM THE TRAILHEAD TO POIA LAKE IS AN EASY 6.4 MILES, FIRST CLIMBING UP SWIFTCURRENT RIDGE AND THEN DOWN TO POIA LAKE. WE FOUND THE CAMP ON A SLOPE IN THE TREES JUST BEFORE THE LAKE WITH NO VIEWS OF THE NEARBY MOUNTAINS, I LIKED IT IMMEDIATELY. AFTER FIRST HANGING OUR BEAR BAGS ON THE BEAR WIRE WE MADE CAMP AND THEN WALKED DOWN TO THE LAKE TO FILTER WATER AND TAKE IN THE VIEW. IN THE WEST THE SUN WAS STILL HIGH IN THE SKY SHINING BRIGHTLY THROUGH THE SCATTERED CIRRUS CLOUDS ABOVE THE BIG RED MOUNTAINS AT THE FAR END OF THE VALLEY. I FOUND A LARGE ROCK TO SIT ON AT THE WATERS EDGE AND REMOVED MY BOOTS AND SOCKS TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE SUNS SOOTHING WARMTH AND THE LAKES COOL WATER ON MY FEET. RETREATING BACK TO THE FOOD PREP AREA WE ATE DINNER AND THEN RETREATED BACK TO THE BEACH TO RELAX BEFORE RETIRING TO OUR TENTS FOR THE EVENING.
HEADING UP SWIFTCURRENT RIDGE
POIA LAKE
LOOKING TOWARDS CROWFEET MTN ON WAY UP TO REDGAP PASS
ON REDGAP PASS
HEADING DOWN FROM REDGAP PASS
HELEN LAKE AND AHERN PASS IN THE DISTANCE
DAWN MIST FALLS
ARRIVING AT COSLEY LAKE
CAMP AT COSLEY LAKE
DAY 2
AUGUST 16 2013
POIA LAKE 5785' TO REDGAP PASS 7530' TO COSLEY LAKE 4842'
14.40 MILES
2055' UP 3008' DOWN
EXITING CAMP WE WALKED ALONG THE FOOT OF POIA LAKE AND IN A FEW MINUTES WE WERE CROSSING THE FOOT BRIDGE AT THE LAKES OUTLET. TURNING LEFT WE HEADED WEST AND DEEPER INTO THE VALLEY TOWARDS CROWFEET AND SEWARD MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE. THE TRAIL IS IN AND OUT OF THE TREES BUT MOSTLY LEVEL AND SOON POIA LAKE IS BEHIND US. WE STEPPED STONES OVER THE NUMEROUS NARROW AND SHALLOW SNOWMELT CREEKS WHICH DRAIN INTO THE MOSTLY UNSEEN KENNEDY CREEK DOWNHILL AND TO OUR LEFT. AFTER A FEW MILES WE START CLIMBING THE SWITCHBACKS ON SEWARD MTN TO REDGAP PASS NOW OUT OF SIGHT. THE UPHILL GRIND BEGINS. LEFT POLE LEFT FOOT FORWARD, RIGHT POLE RIGHT FOOT FORWARD. WE ADJUSTED OUR PACE AS THE DIFFICULTY OF THE CLIMB CHANGED BUT WE KEPT MOVING FORWARD.
BREAKING ABOVE TIMBERLINE WE PAUSED AND LOOKED ACROSS THE VALLEY TO SEE KENNEDY LAKE NESTLED UP HIGH BETWEEN APIKUNI AND CROWFEET MTN. AFTER SNAPPING A QUICK PIC WE GOT BACK TO WORK AND THE PRIZE OF TOPPING RED GAP PASS NOW VISIBLE TO OUR UPPER RIGHT.
APPROACHING REDGAP PASS I CAN FEEL THE PULL OF GRAVITY WITH EACH STEP I TAKE AND THE LOWER OXYGEN LEVELS WITH EACH BREATH. THOUGH I USUALLY DO NOT FEEL FOR A LACK OF OXYGEN UNTIL @ 10K FEET, I AM BREATHING FASTER AND DEEPER.
THE AIR YOU BREATHE IS ROUGHLY 79% NITROGEN AND 21% OXYGEN. THAT 21 PERCENTAGE OF OXYGEN IS THE SAME FROM SEA LEVEL TO 70K FEET. BUT AT HIGHER ELEVATIONS THE LOWER ATMOSPHERIC AIR PRESSURE DISPERSES THE OXYGEN MOLECULES AND THUS DELIVERS LESS OXYGEN TO THE LUNGS FOR EACH BREATH, AND FOR EVERY 1K FEET OF ELEVATION GAIN YOU LOSE @ 3% OF OXYGEN. THE OXYGEN LEVEL AT REDGAP PASS ELEVATION 7560' IS @ 16.17% OR 23% LESS OXYGEN THAN AT SEA LEVEL. BREATHING FASTER DOES INCREASE THE OXYGEN CONTENT IN THE BLOOD BUT NOT TO SEA LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS AND THE BODY DOES ITS BEST TO ADJUST.
TOPPING RED GAP PASS THE BELLY RIVER VALLEY'S MOUNTAINS AND OLD SUN GLACIER COME INTO VIEW. REDGAP PASS IS BIG AND BOLD, LIKE DAWSON PASS BUT WITH ITS OWN UNIQUE LOOK. BECAUSE IT IS BURIED IN THE BACKCOUNTRY RED GAP DOES NOT SEE MANY DAY HIKERS AS IT IS A VERY LONG HIKE FROM ANY DIRECTION. SUFFICE IT TO SAY THAT IS FINE WITH US AND FOR A SHORT TIME RED GAP PASS IS ALL OURS.
THE SUN IS BRIGHT AND STRONG AND THE TEMPERATURE IS PLEASANTLY IN THE 60'S. WE BROKE FOR LUNCH AND I USED THE CAIRN AS A WINDBREAK TO BOIL WATER. DESPITE THE ALTITUDE AND WIND THERE ARE STILL OCCASIONAL NUISANCE FLYS DIVE BOMBING MY LUNCH. I HATE HAVING TO EAT SO MUCH BUT I KNOW IT IS NECESSARY. THROUGH OUT MY TRIP I HAVE BEEN COUNTING CALORIES. THE RECOMMENDED DAILY CALORIC INTAKE PER DAY FOR HIGH INTENSITY BACKPACKING IS 3200-3800 CALORIES AND OF THESE CALORIES ROUGHLY 60% SHOULD BE CARBOHYDRATES WITH PROTEINS AND FATS AROUND 20% EACH. I BROUGHT ROUGHLY 3000 CALORIES PER DAY FOR MYSELF AND SEEM TO BE EATING ALL THE TIME TO CONSUME THAT. IT IS ALMOST INEVITABLE THAT YOU WILL LOSE SOME WEIGHT ON THESE TRIPS. A FEW YEARS BACK I LOST 10 POUNDS IN A WEEK DAY HIKING SOLO AND AS I AM ALREADY THIN I DO NOT NEED TO REPEAT THE EXPERIENCE SO I EAT.
FROM REDGAP PASS SEWARD MOUNTAIN LOOKS LIKE AN EASY STROLL TO THE TOP BUT WE STILL HAD 10.8 MILES TO GO TO OUR NEXT CAMP AT COSLEY LAKE WHICH JUST GAVE US ANOTHER REASON TO RETURN TO RED GAP. THE HIKE DOWN FROM RED GAP PASS IS VERY BEAUTIFUL, ELIZABETH LAKE, HELEN LAKE AND AHERN PASS TUCKED BACK IN THE DISTANCE. AS WE DESCENDED REDGAP THE TEMPERATURE GRADUALLY ROSE AND IT BECAME A BIT WARM, BUT THERE WAS NOTHING TO COMPLAIN ABOUT WITH THE BEAUTIFUL WEATHER WE WERE HAVING.
AT THE ELIZABETH LAKE FOOT BRIDGE I WAS TEMPTED TO JUMP INTO THE WATER TO COOL OFF BUT AT THIS POINT WE WERE HIKING IN THE TREES AND WE JUST WANTED TO GET TO COSLEY LAKE. WE PASSED DAWN MIST FALLS WHICH LOOKS LIKE THE HAMMS BEER COMMERCIAL (SHOWING AGE) OR A SHOWER MADE FOR THE GODS. SHORTLY AFTER PASSING THE TRAIL JUNCTION TO THE BELLY RIVER RANGER STATION COSLEY LAKE CAME INTO VIEW. WOW WHAT A SIGHT, MOUNTAINS, WATER, SUN! OUR SPIRITS PICKED UP IMMEDIATELY. I REMOVED MY BOOTS AND SLIPPED ON MY WATER SHOES AND CROSSED THE WATER AT THE CABLE WHICH IS THE LOWEST POINT TO CROSS. AT ITS HIGHEST THE WATER WAS KNEE HIGH WITH A SLIGHT CURRENT BUT AN EASY FORD. ONCE ON THE OTHER SIDE IT WAS AN EASY 10 MINUTES TO CAMP. WE ARRIVED CAMP DUSTY, SWEATY, HUNGRY AND THIRSTY BUT IN HIGH SPIRITS. WE WERE THE LAST TO ARRIVE AND MY PARTNER GRABBED THE LAST REMAINING SITE WHICH WAS NEAREST THE FOOD PREP AREA. UNLIKE POIA LAKE THIS CAMPSITE WAS HUGE AND WE HAD PLENTY OF ROOM BETWEEN OUR SOLO TENTS. DID I MENTION WE WERE ON THE BEACH.
ABOUT MY PARTNER. SHE IS A 71 YEAR YOUNG INTREPID TOUGH AS NAILS BACKPACKER. SHE ALSO HAPPENS TO BE MY COUSIN. SHE INSPIRES ME. EARLIER THIS YEAR SHE BACKPACKED IN YOSEMITE, LAST YEAR SHE HIKED UP MT KILIMANJARO, NEXT YEAR SHE IS DOING THE DOLOMITES IN ITALY AND BACKPACKING GLACIER OF COURSE WITH ME AGAIN. I COULDN'T IMAGINE THAT I AT AGE 71 COULD HIKE THROUGH THESE MOUNTAINS AS STRONGLY AS SHE DOES. THIS IS HER SECOND BACKPACK IN GLACIER AND OUR FIRST TOGETHER. SHE KNEW I HAD BEEN GOING TO GLACIER FOR SOMETIME AND EVERY CHRISTMAS SHE WOULD ASK ME "WHEN ARE WE GOING TO GLACIER"? I ALWAYS TOLD HER "ANYTIME" BUT IT JUST NEVER HAPPENED UNTIL THIS YEAR.
I AM 54. I FELL IN LOVE WITH GLACIER ON JULY 20, 1969 WHEN I WAS 10 YEARS OLD. ITS NO WONDER WHY I CAN STILL REMEMBER THAT DATE, APOLLO 11'S LUNAR MODULE WAS LANDING ON THE MOON, COMMANDED BY NEIL ARMSTRONG THE FIRST MAN ON THE MOON AND PILOTED BY BUZZ ALDRIN THE SECOND MAN ON THE MOON. WE LISTENED TO THE GREAT EVENT ON OUR CAR RADIO WHILE THE REST OF THE NATION WAS GLUED TO THEIR MOSTLY BLACK AND WHITE TV SETS.
IN 1977 I WAS A SENIOR IN HIGH SCHOOL AND I PLANNED A BACKPACK TRIP TO GLACIER FOR THAT SUMMER, AND I RETURNED AGAIN TO BACKPACK THE FOLLOWING YEAR. THEN LIFE TOOK OVER BUT I ALWAYS KNEW I WOULD BE BACK. I VISITED ONCE IN THE 90'S AND THEN STARTED COMING BACK ANNUALLY 7 YEARS AGO HIKING SOLO. WANTING TO SEE MORE I STARTED BACKPACKING AGAIN.
ME, CIRCA 1977 WITH GUITAR ON PACK, FLY ROD AND THE KITCHEN SINK
DAY 3
AUGUST 17 2013
COSLEY LAKE 4842' TO STONEY INDIAN PASS 6908' TO STONEY INDIAN LAKE 6325'
10.2 MILES
2468' UP 1000' DOWN
THE FIRST PART OF THE HIKE PARALLELS COSLEY AND GLENNS LAKES IN THE BRUSH WITH NO MOUNTAIN VIEWS. WE SAILED INTO MOJ AND WERE SOON STARTING THE CLIMB TO STONEY INDIAN PASS. THE FIRST PART OF THE CLIMB WAS STILL VERY BRUSHY BUT AFTER GAINING SOME ELEVATION WE COULD SPY GLENN AND COSLEY LAKES BEHIND AND BELOW US IN THE DISTANCE. THERE WERE MOUNTAINS EVERYWHERE AND WE PASSED MANY SMALL RUNOFF STREAMS AND NAMED AND UNNAMED WATERFALLS. WE HAD ONE WATER CROSSING WHERE I NEEDED TO WEAR WATER SHOES. WE HAD NOT SEEN A SOUL ALL DAY BUT SUDDENLY WE RAN INTO 2 BACKPACKERS COMING DOWN FROM STONEY INDIAN PASS. THEY WERE FROM GERMANY, A HUSBAND AND WIFE. THEY SPOKE GOOD ENGLISH AND WE SPOKE OF ITINERARIES AND HOME TOWNS AND SOON ENOUGH WE BADE THEM AUF WIEDERSEHEN AND WERE TREKKING UP HILL AGAIN.
YOU HAVE TO THINK ABOUT EVERYTHING YOU DO HERE IN THE BC AND WHAT IMPACT IT WILL HAVE ON THE ENVIRONMENT. IT REALLY DOES MATTER GIVEN THE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE IN THE BACKCOUNTRY ON ANY GIVEN DAY AS IT ADDS UP AT THE END OF THE SEASON. FOR THE MOST PART ALL MY FELLOW BACKPACKERS FOLLOW THE RULES BUT I HAVE SEEN SOME POOR PRACTICES IN THE BC FOOD PREP AREA. IF YOU MAKE IT YOU EAT IT, DRINK IT OR YOU PACK IT OUT, AND THAT MEANS EVERYTHING. NO POURING FOOD JUICES OUT PLEASE. IT IS NOT ALLOWED, IT POLLUTES AND ATTRACTS WILDLIFE (INSERT CHRIS FARLEY VOICE HERE) "FOR THE LOVE OF GOD THIS IS GLACIER NATIONAL PARK"!
SUDDENLY WE WERE AT STONEY INDIAN PASS. THIS IS NOT THE TREELESS EXPANSIVE DAWSON OR REDGAP PASSES BUT A BEAUTIFULLY SEMI TREED PASS WITH A GREAT WILDERNESS FEEL. PASSING THE CAIRN, STONEY INDIAN LAKE CAME INTO VIEW. IT HAS A GREAT GLACIER BLUE COLOR TO IT. NOT AS DEEP A COLOR AS UPPER GRINNELL OR CRACKER LAKES BUT STILL VERY NICE. THE SHORT HIKE DOWN FROM THE PASS TO THE LAKE AND CAMP WAS ALL BLISS, IN THE SUN AND ALONG THE SHORELINE.
THE CAMP IS LOCATED AT THE END OF THE LAKE OPPOSITE THE PASS. THE LAKES EXIT STREAM DIVIDES THE CAMP INTO 2 HALVES WITH A SHORT FOOTBRIDGE OVER THE STREAM. THE EATING AREA, BEAR POLE AND BEAR BOX ARE LOCATED ON ONE SIDE OF CAMP SET BACK IN THE TREES. IN THE CENTER IS A CLEARING. ON THE OTHER SIDE OF CAMP OVER THE FOOTBRIDGE AND DOWN A SHORT TRAIL IS THE PRIVY. IT IS THE BOX ON THE GROUND TYPE WITH JUST A ROUND HOLE CUT INTO THE WOOD TOP FOR A SEAT AND A WOODEN COVER ON A HINGE, A GLORIFIED HOLE IN THE GROUND. THE CAMPSITES ARE SET ON A SMALL RIDGE JUST PAST THE FOOTBRIDGE AND PRIVY TRAIL. TO GET ON THE RIDGE YOU CLIMB UP A 3 FOOT SECTION OF EXPOSED ROCK. THERE ARE SMALL LEDGES TO PLACE YOUR BOOTS FOR THE CLIMB, BUT YOU DO NEED TO BE CAREFUL AS IT IS A BIT PRECARIOUS AND NOT A GOOD PLACE TO SLIP AND FALL.
OMINOUS SKY'S IN THE MORNING AT COSLEY LAKE
BEACH STONE ON COSLEY LAKE
TYPICAL TRAIL PARALLELING COSLEY AND GLENNS LAKES
LOOKING BACK TOWARDS COSLEY AND GLENNS LAKES
STONEY INDIAN PASS CAIRN
STONEY INDIAN LAKE
ME AT STONEY INDIAN LAKE
DAY 4
AUGUST 18 2013
STONEY INDIAN LAKE 6325' TO FIFTY MOUNTAIN 6680'
8.2 MILES
2800' UP 1725' DOWN
545AM WALKED TO THE FOOD PREP AREA IN THE DARK. I HAD MY BREAKFAST AND CLEANED UP BEFORE ANYONE ELSE ARRIVED. WE BROKE CAMP AND MADE IT DOWN TO THE WATERTON TRAIL JCT IN 90 MINUTES AND SOON ENOUGH WE WERE HEADING SOUTH TOWARDS 50 MOUNTAIN, HIKING UPHILL AND MOSTLY IN THE TREES. BREAKING INTO THE OPEN NORTH OF 50 MOUNTAIN THE VIEWS IMPROVED DRAMATICALLY AS THE WHOLE RANGE OF THE NORTHERN HIGHLINE TRAIL CAME INTO VIEW. SOON AFTER PASSING THE STONE CABIN WE ENTERED 50 MOUNTAIN CAMP. FOR A CHANGE WE WERE NOT THE LAST TO ARRIVE BUT THE FIRST. TRAIL MAINTENANCE HAD LITERALLY JUST FINISHED BUILDING NEW LOG SEATS AT THE FOOD PREP AREA AND THE WOOD WAS NOT YET FULLY CURED. THE WOOD HAD THAT FRESHLY CUT SMELL AND WAS CLEAN AND SHINY LIKE A STICK THAT YOU JUST WHITTLED WITH AN UNEVEN SURFACE BUT SMOOTH ENOUGH TO SIT ON WITHOUT GETTING A SPLINTER. WHILE MY COUSIN WENT OFF TO PICK HUCKLEBERRIES I SCANNED THE HILLSIDES FOR WILDLIFE AND TOOK IN THE VIEW. THE CREEK NEXT TO CAMP WAS VERY SHALLOW AND RUNNING VERY SLOWLY WITH ONLY A FEW SPOTS SEVERAL INCHES DEEP AND WIDE, BUT AFTER DINNER THE STREAM WAS RUNNING TWICE AS FULL AND WATER PLENTIFUL.
HEADING SOUTH ON THE HLT ABOUT HALFWAY TO 50 MTN
JUST NORTH OF 50 MTN
50 MTN PRIVY
DAY 5
AUGUST 19 2013
FIFTY MOUNTAIN 6680' TO GRANITE PARK 6490'
11.9 MILES
1780' UP 1910' DOWN
ITS 8AM AS WE EXIT CAMP AND THE SUNS RAYS HAVE NOT REACHED US YET. IT IS STILL COOL AND I NEED MY LONG SLEEVE POLY T AND MY RAIN SHELL FOR THE BREEZE. UP AHEAD HIGH ON THE CDT TRAIL IS A TRAIL MAINTENANCE WORKER ON A 30 DEGREE INCLINE DIGGING SCREE OFF A SECTION OF TRAIL THAT WAS WASHED OUT IN THE LAST STORM. HE IS REBUILDING THE TRAIL WITH FLAT BLOCKS OF ROCK TO HELP PREVENT EROSION FOR THE NEXT STORM. HE TOLD US HE WORKS MOSTLY BY HIMSELF MAINTAINING TRAILS AND CAMPS FOR UP TO 10 DAYS AT A TIME IN THE BC. WE THANKED HIM FOR HIS HARD WORK AND CAREFULLY CLIMBED UP AND AROUND THE PILE OF SCREE HE SHOVELED.
IN A FEW MINUTES WE WERE AT THE CUTOFF TO THE SUE LAKE OVERLOOK. IT WAS A SHORT .4 MILES AND EASY HIKE UP TO THE 7700' OVERLOOK. THE SKY WAS OVERCAST AND THE MOUNTAINS WERE DARK AND MONOCHROMATIC GREY WHICH DID NOT MAKE FOR GOOD PICTURE TAKING. NONE THE LESS THIS IS A VERY SPECIAL PLACE AND WOULD BE A GREAT PLACE TO TAKE A LUNCH OR SPEND SOME FREE TIME.
HIKING BACK DOWN TO THE NORTHERN HIGHLINE AND ONTO OUR NEXT BC SNOW/WATER HAZARD "CATTLE QUEEN CREEK" THE LOWEST POINT ON THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE IN GLACIER. AT CATTLE QUEEN CREEK THE SNOW WAS GONE BUT THERE WAS A FAIR SIZE MELT STREAM WHICH WAS AN EASY CROSS. WE STOPPED FOR LUNCH HERE AND SAT ON THE HUGE SLABS OF ROCK.
WE HADN'T SEEN ANYBODY SAVE THE TRAIL WORKER ABOVE FIFTY MOUNTAIN ALL DAY BUT THAT WAS ABOUT TO CHANGE. WE MET SEVERAL CLEAN AND WELL GROOMED COUPLES AT THE AHERN PASS SIDE TRAIL, DAY HIKERS FROM GRANITE PARK CHALET ALL SMILING AND HAVING A GREAT TIME BUT WE DID LOSE A BIT OF THAT FEELING OF SOLITUDE AND OF BEING IN A BACKPACKER ONLY WORLD. AT THAT POINT I REALIZED HOW MUCH WE HAD BEEN REMOVED FROM CIVILIZATION. I DID NOT WANT TO LEAVE THE BACKPACKER REALM, BUT I WOULD REALLY LOVE A SHOWER!
PASSING THE INFAMOUS AHERN DRIFT WHERE THERE WAS ONLY ENOUGH SNOW TO MAKE A SKINNY SNOWMAN WE BROKE INTO THE SUNSHINE FOR THE REST OF THE WARM HIKE IN THE SUN TO GRANITE PARK CAMP. WE HEARD GRANITE PARK MIGHT NOT HAVE MUCH WATER BUT THE CREEK ON THE NORTH SIDE OF IT WAS TOTALLY SUFFICIENT FOR OUR WATER NEEDS BUT I HAD OTHER THOUGHTS AFTER SETTING UP CAMP TO QUENCH MY THIRST.
WE WALKED UP TO THE CHALET AND I QUICKLY BOUGHT A GATORADE OUT OF THE "FRIDGE", SAT DOWN AT A BENCH INSIDE AND PLAYED RUMMY WITH MY PARTNER. BACK AT CAMP I WAS HAPPY TO BE EATING MY LAST FREEZE DRIED DINNER. I DO LIKE THE FOOD I BRING ON THE TRIP, BUT IT IS MOSTLY THE SAME EVERY DAY AND I WAS GETTING TIRED OF IT, AND I'M A GUY WHO CAN EAT A LOT OF THE SAME THING.
PEAKS FROM SUE LAKE OVERLOOK TRAIL LOOKING SOUTH
LENTICULAR CLOUDS? JUST PAST SUE LAKE OVERLOOK TRAIL
AHERN DRIFT, OR WHATS LEFT OF IT
DAY 6
AUGUST 20 2013
GRANITE PARK 6490' TO SWIFTCURRENT PASS TO SWIFTCURRENT PARKING LOT 4887'
7.6 MILES
735 UP 2255 DOWN
THIS MORNING THERE WAS A DEER IN CAMP. HE DID NOT BOTHER ANYONE AND WAS A NICE ADDITION TO OUR MOUNTAIN HOME. THE VIEWS IN CAMP ARE NICE AND I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO THE HIKE UP TO SWIFTCURRENT PASS AND DOWN TO THE VALLEY FLOOR. MY FOOD STUFF SACK IS ALMOST EMPTY OF FOOD AND OF COURSE THAT MEANS I AM CARRYING ABOUT 10LBS LESS THAN AT THE START OF MY TRIP.
TODAY I GET TO EAT TUNA FOR LUNCH. I WOULD EAT TUNA EVERY DAY IF IT WASN'T FOR THE SMELLY GARBAGE IT CREATES, BUT TODAY I WILL BE ABLE TO THROW OUT THE GARBAGE BACK AT SWIFTY. 7.6 MILES TO GO AND ALMOST ALL DOWNHILL WITH ICE CREAM AND A SHOWER AT THE END OF THE TRAIL!
JUST PAST DEVILS ELBOW WE AGAIN RAN INTO THE GERMAN COUPLE WE MET NEAR STONEY INDIAN PASS, NOW HIKING UP TO GRANITE PARK AND GOING ON ANOTHER 5 DAY BACKPACK. NICE…
DEVILS ELBOW
VIEW FROM DEVILS ELBOW
ONCE ON THE VALLEY FLOOR WE RAN INTO ALL THE DAY HIKERS. THERE WERE ALSO SEVERAL TRAIL MAINTENANCE CREWS CUTTING BRUSH. THOUGH STILL SEVERAL MILES OUT WE FELT WE WERE ALREADY BACK IN CIVILIZATION. WHILE TAKING A BREAK MY PARTNER WAS STUNG BY A BEE IN THE BRUSH. IT HURT HER INITIALLY BUT SHE WAS OK IN A FEW MINUTES!
ALAS, THE BUSY SWIFTCURRENT PARKING LOT! PEOPLE ARE EVERYWHERE AND INSTEAD OF AVOIDING BEARS ON THE TRAIL WE'RE AVOIDING THE STREAM OF CARS LOOKING FOR A SPACE TO PARK. IN AN INSTANT WE TURNED FROM BACKPACKERS INTO TOURIST'S. AFTER ICE CREAM AND SHOWERS WE JUMPED INTO OUR CAR AND HEADED TO ST MARY FOR DINNER, COMON FAT GRAMS!
OUR LAST NIGHT WAS SPENT AT THE MANY GLACIER BACKCOUNTRY CAMP SITE WHERE WE WERE THE ONLY BACKPACKERS. A FUNNY FACT IS THIS WAS OUR COLDEST NIGHT OF THE TRIP.
THE NEXT MORNING WE WERE UP AT DAWN, PACKED AND READY TO GO IN MINUTES FOR OUR JOURNEY HOME. WE DONATED OUR BEAR SPRAY AND JET BOIL FUEL CANISTER TO THE PARK RANGERS AND WE'RE SOON WATCHING THE FOG RISE FROM BOULDER CREEK AS WE EXITED MANY GLACIER. SLOWING FOR THE 35MPH THROUGH ST MARY WE TOOK OUR LAST LOOK AT ST MARY LAKE AT THE PULLOUT ON THE HILL AND THEN CONTINUING SOUTH STARTED THE ZIG AND ZAG THROUGH THE FOOTHILLS WHILE ON THE CONSTANT LOOK OUT FOR THE OMNIPRESENT FREE RANGE CATTLE.
OF THE 10 MOST VISITED NATIONAL PARKS IN 2013 GLACIER WAS #10 WITH 2.2 MILLION VISITORS, #1 WAS GREAT SMOKEY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK WITH 9.4 MILLION VISITORS. BEING #1 IS NOT ALWAYS A GOOD THING.
WATCHING THE RUNWAY DISAPPEAR UNDERNEATH, I TOOK MY LAST LOOK AT THE GOLDEN MONTANA PLAINS RUSHING THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN FRONT. GOODBYE ALPINE MEADOWS AND LAKES, GOODBYE MOUNTAINS AND PASSES, GOODBYE GRIZZLY BEARS, MOUNTAIN GOATS, WOLVERINES AND MARMOTS, GOODBYE BIG SKY COUNTRY!
PS I HOPED TO BE AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE WITH MY FACTS, AND I AM NO WRITER, BUT I JUST WANTED TO TELL MY STORY FROM A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE. HOPE YOU ENJOY!
VIEW FROM MT HELEN FALSE PEAK, DAY HIKING BEFORE BP TRIP
RISING WOLF AND TWO MED
