Labor Day at Glacier had us attempting to summit Mount Reynolds. We tried to get to Logan early to avoid the crowded parking lot but got hung up at St Mary getting our backpacking permit for the following day. Despite a little fog / low clouds we fully expected a full lot as we pulled in at 9:00 to Logan Pass. We were car number 14. Not a good sign.
Conditions at Logan were windy to very windy with occasional rain, the ceiling around 8,000. We quickly layered up and made our lonely trek up the boardwalk which lead to the climbers trail cutoff. As we turned left towards Reynolds the blowing clouds lifted allowing a brief view of Reynolds, it would be the last of the day.
The small snow fields we crossed had well worn steps and were not particularly hazardous. The wind grew as we gained the first pass and rain became sleet which suited me just fine. We traversed the west side of Reynolds leading to the saddle between it and Dragon Tail using the goat trail all the while climbing into thicker clouds. We found the SW climber's trail and began out ascent.
After the initial scramble we began the dreaded scree climb to the next set of cliffs. Snow from Friday was pretty thick in spots adding to the normal 2 steps up 1.5 steps back progress up the scree field. Conditions remained about the same, a little more wind, harder sleet, but no ice covered rocks so far. I was astonished as we spotted a set of tracks angling into the worn scree trail. They were headed up and obviously from earlier that morning. We were not the only fools on the mountain that day!
Soon we heard voices in the clouds above and a pair appeared heading our way. We had the briefest of exchanges as the girl friend of the two looked pretty cold. We learned it was really really windy at the top, the cairns were hard to follow but we should be okay since the snow would give us tracks to follow. The climbers disappeared rapidly down the scree trail.
We struggled 5 more minutes until we gained the cliff band and made good progress following the cairns and tracks until we reached an extended ledge with tracks and cairns both ways. I felt we were very close to the summit ridge but needed to make a decision pretty quick as the wind and sleet continued to increase. Summit fever also had a pretty strong grip on me which I acknowledged with Pam as we huddled in a small pocket out of the elements to wolf down our lunch.
To the west on the ledge it took a hard turn to the right into the teeth of the blowing sleet. I told Pam I would go alone for 5 minutes and if no ridge was found we would need to turn back. It was really nasty as I turned the corner but the footing was good so I tucked my head down and followed the ledge as it angled upward. Within a minute the summit ridge was in view!! I turned back and gave Pam the thumbs up but warned her around the corner it was going to be nasty and we had to keep moving and gain the summit ridge.
You may have noticed Pam has abandoned her gloves as they became wet from rock climbing and more of hindrance than a help. I was quite concerned but she assured me her hands were okay as we ate lunch. I practically danced up the ridge and was so happy we had made it after almost turning back right at the end. I can appreciate better now summit fever and the effects it has on your judgement. We had a very brief stay on top while enjoying a view equal to being inside of a milk bottle.
On the way down I was amazed at the strange growth of ice/snow on the tips of exposed rocks. I was even more amazed when we came upon climbers 5 and 6 who told me they had used the north traverse, wow! Any way we made our way down quickly despite all the ice rock pictures I took. Pam has now upgraded to dry sock gloves for climb down.
We descended out of the clouds while still high above Hidden Lake. At the lower altitude we were back into the rain zone which sped our walk to a jog once we reached the boardwalk.
The parking lot was now about full despite more rain and wind than when we began. We headed west and had the wonderful burger and beer fries at the Glacier Grill shown below
Two days down and many to go, tomorrow we go backpacking and meet up with Jen, Bruce, Joybird and later Toddnick at Gunsight Lake.
Glacier Park Chat
